Arc De Triomphe

Paris, France

Arc De Triomphe

Inaugurated 29 July 1836 with only 11 people present — the grand ceremony was cancelled for fear of an attack on Louis-Philippe.

1-2 hours
€16 adults / Free under 18 EU / Free first Sunday Nov-Mar
Lift partway, ~46 stairs to rooftop terrace
Spring (April-May)

Introduction

Whose arch is this, exactly? Napoleon ordered it in 1806 to crown his Grande Armée, but he never saw it finished — he died on Saint Helena fifteen years before the keystone went up, and the only time he passed beneath it was as ashes, on 15 December 1840. The Arc de Triomphe you photograph at the top of the Champs-Élysées in Paris, France, honours revolutionary armies, imperial armies, a Bourbon Spanish campaign, and an unknown soldier whose name nobody can verify. Come for the sightline down the axe historique; stay because the monument keeps changing what it means.

It sits at Place de l'Étoile, where twelve avenues fan out like spokes — a pattern Haussmann laid down in the 1850s and 60s around an arch that was already there. Stand under the vault and the city aligns itself for you: Louvre Museum behind, Place de la Concorde and the obelisk straight back down the avenue, La Défense's Grande Arche eight kilometres ahead. One sightline. Three centuries of regimes.

The dimensions are blunt. Fifty metres tall, forty-five wide — taller than a fifteen-storey apartment block and broader than the trading floor of a stock exchange. Climb the 284 steps to the attic terrace and Paris opens up: Eiffel Tower to the southwest, Sacré-Cœur on its hill to the north, the curve of the Seine threading through it all.

Then look down. At the foot of the arch a flame burns in a bronze cannon-mouth, and every evening at 18h30 — without a single exception since 11 November 1923 — a delegation of veterans rekindles it. Schoolchildren, regiments, allied embassies, all on a public roster. Free to attend. Silent. The longest unbroken civic ritual in modern Europe, performed under a monument whose original meaning has been overwritten three times.

What to See

The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Eternal Flame

Walk under the vault and the traffic roar of the twelve avenues drops to a hush. A granite slab sits flush with the pavement: Ici repose un soldat français mort pour la Patrie, 1914–1918. Around the bronze flame, twenty-five swords radiate in a star — most visitors photograph the fire and miss the blades entirely.

The flame has burned without interruption since 11 November 1923. Edgar Brandt forged the cannon-mouth shield; Henri Favier drew the geometry. Every evening at 18h30, veterans of La Flamme sous l'Arc de Triomphe rekindle it with bugle, Marseillaise, and a minute of silence. Come in winter dusk around 17h when the stone is already dark and the small blue-orange flicker is the loudest thing in the chamber.

Look up before you leave. The coffered vault overhead is crowded with rosettes — deep shadow geometry almost no one notices while standing at the tomb.

Arc de Triomphe illuminated at night, Paris, France
Arc de Triomphe, Paris, France under clear blue sky

Rude's Marseillaise and the Façade Reliefs

On the northeast pier facing the Champs-Élysées, François Rude carved Le Départ des Volontaires de 1792 — known to everyone as La Marseillaise. A winged genius of liberty howls above a knot of soldiers, mouth open mid-shout. Stand close enough and you can see the tendons in her neck.

The four colossal high-reliefs were finished under Louis-Philippe between 1833 and 1836, each by a different sculptor competing for the four piers. Rude won the argument. Cortot's Triumph of 1810 on the opposite pier is technically accomplished and emotionally inert; the contrast is the lesson.

Walk the perimeter slowly along the Avenue de la Grande Armée side — fewer crowds, better low-angle light, and the Liberation gunfire of August 1944 left shrapnel pocks on the lower stonework if you look for them at hand height.

The 360° Terrace and the Historic Axis

Two hundred and eighty-four steps up a tight spiral and you surface fifty metres above Place de l'Étoile. Twelve avenues spoke out beneath you in a perfect star — Haussmann's geometry only legible from here. West runs the Axe Historique: Tuileries, the Louvre Pyramid behind, La Défense and its Grande Arche dead ahead, all on a single straight line drawn through three centuries of Parisian ambition.

Come forty minutes before sunset. Brass orientation plates name twenty monuments around the parapet — the Eiffel Tower sparkles on the hour after dark, and from up here you see the whole light show without the tower itself blocking the view. Sacré-Cœur glows white on its hill to the northeast. The Place de la Concorde obelisk catches the last sun down the Champs.

Bring a layer. The terrace is exposed and the wind off the avenues is colder than it looks from the street.

The Inside Story — Names, Vigil Room, and a Pilot's Stunt

Most visitors charge the stairs and miss the interior chambers. Slow down. The inner walls list 660 generals and 128 victories of the Revolution and Empire — the underlined names are the generals who died in battle, a quiet code carved into the stone. Victor Hugo wrote a furious poem in 1837 because his father was left off. The omission was never corrected.

The Salle des Palmes is where the Unknown Soldier lay in vigil from November 1920 to January 1921 before burial below. And on 7 August 1919, pilot Charles Godefroy flew a Nieuport 11 biplane straight through the arch on a dare — wingspan barely clearing the piers — to protest aviators marching on foot in the Victory Parade. No physical trace, but stand under the vault and try to picture it.

Look for This

On the inner wall of the Arc, find the bullet hole and damage in the bust of Marianne — restored after Yellow Vests protesters smashed it on 1 December 2018. The repair line is visible if you look closely at the marble.

Visitor Logistics

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Getting There

Metro lines 1, 2, 6 and RER A all stop at Charles de Gaulle–Étoile, directly under the roundabout. Never cross the 12-lane Place de l'Étoile on foot — it's illegal and people die trying. Use the Passage du Souvenir tunnel at the top of the Champs-Élysées (north side) or the staircase from Avenue de la Grande-Armée.

schedule

Opening Hours

As of 2026, summer (1 Apr–30 Sep) runs 10:00–23:00, with Tuesday opening late at 11:00. Winter (1 Oct–31 Mar) closes around 22:30. Last admission 45 minutes before close. Special 10:00–17:30 hours on 25 December and 1 January.

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Time Needed

Terrace-and-photo run takes 45–60 minutes including the lift queue and 284-step climb. Add the museum hall and Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and you're at 1.5–2 hours. Add the 18:30 flame ceremony on the Champs side and budget another 30 minutes.

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Accessibility

Tourisme & Handicap-labelled since spring 2025. Wheelchair drop-off on the Avenue de la Grande-Armée median (blue pictogram); two elevators run forecourt → museum hall → terrace, but the mezzanine and the tunnel itself are not PRM-accessible. Free wheelchairs, magnifiers, and noise-cancelling headphones at the ticket office with ID.

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Cost & Tickets

Adult ticket €22 in 2026, booked at tickets.monuments-nationaux.fr. Free for EU residents under 26, disabled visitors plus one companion, and for everyone on the first Sunday of the month from November through March. Ground level and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier are always free — only the rooftop needs a ticket.

Tips for Visitors

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Catch the 18:30 Flame

Every evening since 1923, veterans rekindle the flame over the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier — La Marseillaise, wreath, full protocol. Arrive 18:00 on the Champs-Élysées side; almost no tourists know about it and it's free.

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Go First or Last

Sunset is the worst queue — the lift is small and the line wraps the forecourt. Hit the 10:00 first slot for empty terraces, or the last entry around 22:15 in summer for Paris fully lit and almost nobody up top.

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Watch Your Phone at Étoile

Charles de Gaulle–Étoile metro is a known phone-snatch spot — thieves grab as the doors close. Around the Arc itself, expect the gold-ring scam, fake deaf-mute petitions, and "intentional tourists" with selfie sticks working in pairs.

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Never Cross the Roundabout

Twelve avenues feed into Place de l'Étoile with priorité à droite, meaning entering cars have right-of-way. Locals refuse to drive it; pedestrians who try to cross the surface get hit. Underground tunnel only.

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Eat Off the Champs

The Champs-Élysées strip is overpriced and mediocre — Parisians won't go near it. Walk five minutes north to rue Poncelet market or Place des Ternes for real food: Le Hide (rue du Général Lanrezac, ~€35) for bistro classics, or Brasserie Lorraine for seafood.

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Tripods and Drones

Handheld photos fine everywhere, including the terrace. Tripods need a permit from the Centre des Monuments Nationaux. Drones over central Paris are banned by the préfecture — fines plus criminal charges, no exceptions for tourists.

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Best Sightline Is the Axis

From the terrace, look east down the Champs to the Concorde obelisk, the Tuileries, and the Louvre Pyramid; west runs to La Défense's Grande Arche. This is the axe historique — eight kilometres of deliberate Parisian urbanism in one frame.

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Skip the Champs Walk Down

Guidebooks tell you to stroll down the Champs-Élysées after; it's chain stores and Disney Store crowds. Walk Avenue Hoche or Avenue de Wagram toward Parc Monceau instead — Haussmannian elegance, far fewer tourists.

Where to Eat

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Don't Leave Without Trying

Bar grillé beurre blanc Blanquette de veau Sole meunière Oeufs mayo Escargots Steak-frites

Chez Gabrielle

local favorite
French Bistro €€ star 4.8 (1233)

Order: The foie gras is the standout starter, followed by the braised boeuf.

This intimate spot offers a classic French experience near the Arc de Triomphe, perfect for those seeking traditional dishes like steak and mussels in a chic, cozy setting.

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Opening Hours

Chez Gabrielle

Monday 12:00 – 2:30 PM, 7:00 – 10:00 PM
Tuesday 12:00 – 2:30 PM, 7:00 – 10:00 PM
Wednesday 12:00 – 2:30 PM, 7:00 – 10:00 PM
map Maps language Web

Terre d’Azur

cafe
Brunch & Cafe €€ star 4.8 (5058)

Order: The truffle eggs are highly recommended for a refined breakfast plate.

A charming, early-opening gem that provides a fresh, healthy start to your day with excellent service and a welcoming atmosphere.

schedule

Opening Hours

Terre d’Azur

Monday 7:30 AM – 4:00 PM
Tuesday 7:30 AM – 4:00 PM
Wednesday 7:30 AM – 4:00 PM
map Maps language Web

Restaurant LE Drugstore

local favorite
Brasserie / Fusion €€ star 4.6 (5478)

Order: Try the escargots or the duck confit, and don't skip the signature 'Arc de Triomphe' dessert.

Boasting an unbeatable view of the Arc de Triomphe, this sophisticated locale offers an elegant yet relaxed environment to enjoy classic brasserie staples with a modern twist.

schedule

Opening Hours

Restaurant LE Drugstore

Monday 8:00 AM – 12:00 AM
Tuesday 8:00 AM – 12:00 AM
Wednesday 8:00 AM – 12:00 AM
map Maps language Web

Brasserie Naï

local favorite
French Brasserie €€ star 4.5 (2774)

Order: The French onion soup and the mussels with fries are consistent crowd-pleasers.

A reliable, friendly brasserie that keeps its kitchen open late, offering a great atmosphere and heated outdoor seating for year-round comfort.

schedule

Opening Hours

Brasserie Naï

Monday 7:00 AM – 2:00 AM
Tuesday 7:00 AM – 2:00 AM
Wednesday 7:00 AM – 2:00 AM
map Maps language Web
info

Dining Tips

  • check Service is legally included in your bill; additional tipping is optional and reserved for exceptional service.
  • check If you wish to tip, do so in cash as card terminals often do not allow manual adjustment.
  • check Many independent restaurants observe rest days on Sundays and Mondays.
  • check Lunch is typically served 12:00–14:00, while dinner service usually begins at 19:00.
  • check Card payments are widely accepted, but keep cash on hand for small cafes and markets.
Food districts: 8e (Champs-Élysées) 16e (Classic French cuisine) 17e (Ternes/Batignolles) 7e (Eiffel Tower area)

Restaurant data powered by Google

History

What the Flame Remembers

The Arc was conceived as a victory monument. It became a tomb. The shift wasn't planned — it happened on 11 November 1920, when the body of an unidentified French soldier was placed beneath the vault, and again on 11 November 1923, when André Maginot lit a flame above him. Neither act was in Napoleon's brief. Both have outlasted every regime that ever claimed the arch.

What endures here is the daily ravivage. Every evening, regardless of weather, election, pandemic, or war, members of the Comité de la Flamme — a federation of around 500 veteran associations — rekindle the flame at 18h30. The Comité has done this for over a century, coordinating rosters so the chain never breaks. Records show the ceremony has run uninterrupted since its first lighting; only the years of German occupation between 1940 and 1944 are contested, with Wikipedia citing a halt and the Comité insisting it continued symbolically. Either way, since Liberation: every night, no exceptions.

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The Conscript Who Picked the Soldier

The official version is that France chose its Unknown Soldier with solemn ceremony at the Verdun citadel on 10 November 1920. Eight coffins, each holding the remains of an unidentified French soldier from a different sector of the Western Front, lined up in an underground chamber. A young veteran laid a bouquet of carnations on one. That coffin became the nation.

Look closer and the choice was almost an accident. The young veteran was Auguste Thin — twenty-one years old, a grocer from Cherbourg, and a pupille de la Nation because his own father had vanished in the war. According to tradition, he was a last-minute substitute: the original chooser, a recruit from Martinique, had been struck down with typhoid hours before. Thin had no method, no instruction. Standing in the chamber, he did the arithmetic of a soldier — his regiment was the 132nd, so he added 1+3+2 to get 6, then matched it to his 6th corps. He laid the carnations on the sixth coffin.

The revelation isn't the arithmetic. It's that the most sacred site in French civic religion was selected by a twenty-one-year-old's superstitious sum, performed because someone else got sick. Mitterrand decorated Thin with the Légion d'honneur at this very arch shortly before Thin's death in 1982 — the man who chose the nation, finally honoured by it. Knowing this, the flame at 18h30 reads differently. It isn't burning over a chosen hero. It's burning over a coffin picked by a grieving boy doing maths in the dark, and that randomness is exactly what makes it stand for everyone.

What Changed: The Dedication

The inscription on the arch has been rewritten three times. Napoleon commissioned it in 1806 for the Grande Armée. After his fall, Louis XVIII decreed on 9 October 1823 that it would instead glorify the Armée des Pyrénées — the Bourbon expedition that put Ferdinand VII back on the Spanish throne. Then on 31 July 1832, Louis-Philippe appointed Guillaume Abel Blouet to finish the job and rededicated it to the Armies of the Revolution and the Empire — a compromise that pleased nobody and offended fewer. Blouet quietly added 128 generals and 172 battles to the pillars after the 1836 inauguration, with names being chiselled in as late as 1895. The list you read today is not the list anyone planned.

What Endured: The Ground Itself

What hasn't changed is the function: this hilltop has been a stage for collective French emotion since before the arch existed. On 2 August 1830, around 20,000 patriots reportedly gathered at the unfinished monument to demand Charles X's abdication. On 14 July 1919, the Victory Parade marched through; on 26 August 1944, de Gaulle relit the flame as sniper fire still cracked over the Champs-Élysées and walked down to Notre-Dame. The gilets jaunes defaced the interior in December 2018; Christo wrapped the whole arch in silver fabric in autumn 2021. Each generation finds the same answer to the same question: when France needs to feel something together, it comes here.

The Arc was meant to be crowned by a sculpture and never was — Seurre's France Victorieuse in 1838, a Napoleon group in 1840, Falguière's plaster quadriga from 1882 to 1886 all failed or rotted away, leaving the flat attic that visitors assume is the design. Scholars also continue to debate whether the cornerstone was laid on 6 August 1806 (per Fondation Napoléon) or on Napoleon's birthday, 15 August (per the veterans' association) — and the Unknown Soldier himself has never been DNA-tested, leaving his nationality, technically, an article of faith.

If you were standing on this exact spot at 7:20 in the morning on 7 August 1919, you would hear an engine drop out of the sky and look up to see a Nieuport 11 biplane bank twice over the Étoile. Charles Godefroy levels the wings and aims for the vault — 14.62 metres of opening, fabric wings just clearing the stone. Streetcar passengers throw themselves flat on the cobbles. The roar bounces off the pillars, the smell of castor oil and exhaust hangs in the morning air, and aviators humiliated by Clemenceau three weeks earlier finally get their revenge.

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Frequently Asked

Is the Arc de Triomphe worth visiting? add

Yes, especially at 18h30 for the daily flame ceremony. The terrace gives you the cleanest 360° read of Paris on the 8km Louvre–La Défense axis, and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the vault is the country's most charged civic shrine. Skip it only if you can't handle 284 steps and the lift is down.

How long do you need at the Arc de Triomphe? add

Plan 45–60 minutes for a quick terrace visit, 90 minutes to 2 hours if you want the museum room and the 18h30 ravivage. Queues at sunset can add 30+ minutes — first slot at 10:00 or last admission around 22:15 in summer are the calm windows.

How do I get to the Arc de Triomphe? add

Take metro line 1, 2 or 6, or RER A, to Charles de Gaulle–Étoile. You must use the Passage du Souvenir underground tunnel from the top of the Champs-Élysées — crossing the 12-lane roundabout on foot is illegal and people get hit doing it.

How much does it cost to climb the Arc de Triomphe? add

Adult ticket is €22, booked at tickets.monuments-nationaux.fr. Free for under-26 EU residents, disabled visitors plus a companion, and for everyone on the first Sunday of the month from 1 November to 31 March. Ground level and the Tomb are always free.

Can you visit the Arc de Triomphe for free? add

Yes for the ground level — the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the daily 18h30 flame ceremony cost nothing. The rooftop terrace requires a ticket unless you're under 26 and EU-resident, or visiting on the first Sunday of a winter month.

What time is the flame ceremony at the Arc de Triomphe? add

Every evening at 18h30, rain or shine, uninterrupted since 11 November 1923. Veterans' associations rekindle the Flame of Remembrance with bugle, Marseillaise, and a minute of silence — about 45 minutes total. Arrive by 18h00 on the Champs-Élysées side to stand close behind the chains.

What should I not miss at the Arc de Triomphe? add

The 25 swords radiating around the eternal flame, the underlined names on the inner pillars (generals who died in battle), and Rude's La Marseillaise relief on the northeast pier. Most visitors rush past the Salle des Palmes — the chamber where the Unknown Soldier lay in vigil from November 1920 to January 1921 — straight to the lift.

What is the best time to visit the Arc de Triomphe? add

Late evening: catch the 18h30 ravivage at ground level, then climb at 22:00 in summer when Paris is fully lit and the Eiffel Tower sparkles on the hour. Avoid 16:00–18:00 in summer — that's when the lift queue is worst.

Sources

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