Sketch of a ceiling design by Agostino Mitelli at Buen Retiro

Buen Retiro Palace

Visiting Buen Retiro Palace, Madrid: Tickets, Hours, and Essential Tips

Date: 03/07/2025

Introduction: Buen Retiro Palace and Retiro Park

Nestled in the heart of Madrid, the Buen Retiro Palace—originally a 17th-century royal retreat commissioned by King Philip IV—stands as a testament to Spain’s vibrant history and cultural legacy. Though much of the original palace was destroyed over centuries of war and urban change, its surviving structures, notably the Salón de Reinos (Hall of Realms) and Casón del Buen Retiro, along with the expansive gardens, now form the core of Parque del Retiro. Today, the park is a UNESCO World Heritage site, celebrated as part of Madrid’s “Landscape of Light.” Visitors can explore stunning Baroque architecture, world-class art collections, and lush gardens, making it a must-visit destination for those seeking to immerse themselves in Madrid’s royal past, artistic treasures, and tranquil nature (Finalrentals, Museo del Prado, spain.info).

Draft project plan for the remodeling of Real Sitio del Buen Retiro 1714-1715

View of the Royal Palace of Madrid with a portrait of King Philip V around 1702 during the War of Spanish Succession

Map of French fortifications in Buen Retiro circa 1813

Map of French fortifications in Buen Retiro

Plan of the Retiro Fortress in Madrid after French renovations from 1808 to 1813

Architectural project by De Cotte for Buen Retiro palace

Historical architectural drawing of De Cotte's first project Buen Retiro

Architectural project drawing of Buen Retiro by De Cotte

Architectural project drawing of the royal chambers in Buen Retiro by Bonavía

Architectural drawing of Segundo proyecto de De Cotte Buen Retiro

Architectural design project by De Cotte for Buen Retiro

Historic map fragment showing Buen Retiro Palace and gardens in Madrid, 1656

Detail of Buen Retiro Palace and gardens in the 1656 Teixeira map of Madrid

Historical Overview: From Royal Retreat to Urban Oasis

Origins and Construction

The Buen Retiro Palace was conceived in the early 17th century as a secluded royal residence for King Philip IV. Construction began around 1630, directed by Giovanni Battista Crescenzi and Alonso Carbonell, reflecting both Italianate and Spanish Baroque styles. The palace complex featured grand halls, galleries, and ceremonial spaces, including the Salón de Reinos and Casón del Buen Retiro, adorned with frescoes and works by masters such as Velázquez and Zurbarán (Nomadic Niko).

Artistic and Political Significance

Buen Retiro Palace symbolized the Spanish monarchy’s wealth and artistic patronage during the Golden Age. The Salón de Reinos served as both a ceremonial hall and a visual statement of Habsburg power, its walls depicting monumental battle scenes and royal portraits. The palace’s vast art collection, assembled from across Europe, positioned Madrid as a cultural hub (CAA Reviews, Museo del Prado).

Decline, Destruction, and Renewal

The palace’s fortunes waned in the 18th and 19th centuries. The War of Spanish Succession and the Peninsular War (particularly the French occupation) caused immense destruction, with French troops repurposing the buildings as barracks and looting many of their treasures (eldebate.com). By the time the grounds were opened to the public in 1868, only the Salón de Reinos and Casón del Buen Retiro survived.

Today, these two buildings are integrated into the Prado Museum complex, while the former palace gardens have blossomed into the beloved Retiro Park.

Surviving Architectural Highlights

Salón de Reinos (Hall of Realms)

Built in the 1630s, the Salón de Reinos was a ceremonial space to glorify the Spanish monarchy, featuring works by Velázquez and Zurbarán. Recently restored by Foster + Partners, it now serves as a modern museum space, blending history with sustainable design (fosterandpartners.com).

Casón del Buen Retiro

Originally a ballroom, the Casón is now part of the Prado Museum’s research and library collections, famous for its ceiling fresco by Luca Giordano and its ongoing role as a space for 19th- and 20th-century Spanish art (esmadrid.com).

Retiro Park: Layout and Key Attractions

Spanning over 125 hectares, Retiro Park is a harmonious blend of French- and English-style gardens, tree-lined avenues, and ornamental features (theculturemap.com). Highlights include:

Estanque Grande del Retiro (Retiro Lake): A popular spot for rowboat rentals and framed by the Monument to Alfonso XII (travelawaits.com).
Palacio de Cristal (Crystal Palace): An 1887 glass pavilion hosting free contemporary art exhibitions by the Reina Sofía Museum (thetouristchecklist.com).
Palacio de Velázquez: A 19th-century exhibition hall surrounded by gardens (traveltriangle.com).
Rose Garden (La Rosaleda): Best visited in May and June for spectacular blooms.
Parterre Francés: The only French-style garden in the park, created under Philip V.
Casita del Pescador: A picturesque 19th-century cottage.
Ruinas de San Isidoro de Ávila: Medieval ruins adding historic depth (travelawaits.com).

The park also features playgrounds, the famed Fallen Angel statue, and the Ahuehuete tree, reputedly one of Madrid’s oldest.

Visiting Hours, Tickets, and Accessibility

Retiro Park

Spring–Summer (April–September): 6:00 AM – 12:00 midnight
Autumn–Winter (October–March): 6:00 AM – 10:00 PM
Entry: Free of charge (esmadrid.com)

Salón de Reinos & Casón del Buen Retiro

Typical Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM; closed Mondays (check Prado Museum for updates).
Tickets: Entry requires a Prado Museum ticket, available online or at the entrance.

Palacio de Cristal & Palacio de Velázquez

Hours: Generally 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM (may vary).
Entry: Free; may close for exhibition changes (thetouristchecklist.com).

Accessibility

Wheelchair/Stroller Access: Park paths and main attractions are accessible.
Restrooms: Available at various points.
Digital Information Screens: Located at entrances for maps and updates.
Dog Policy: Dogs must be leashed except in designated areas.

Getting There

The park is centrally located, with main entrances at Plaza de la Independencia (Puerta de Alcalá), Avenida de Menéndez Pelayo, and Calle Alfonso XII. The nearest metro stations are Retiro and Banco de España (Line 2). Numerous bus lines serve the park (nationaltraveller.com).

Guided Tours and Cultural Events

Guided Tours: Thematic tours are available, focusing on history, art, or botany. Check with official park or museum info points for schedules.
Cultural Events: Retiro Park hosts events such as the Madrid Book Fair, open-air concerts, temporary art exhibitions, and outdoor performances, particularly in spring and summer (Citylife Madrid).

Practical Tips

Best Times to Visit: Early mornings and late afternoons offer cooler temperatures and fewer crowds.
Duration: Allocate at least 2–3 hours; a full day enables deeper exploration.
Cafés and Picnic Areas: Multiple options inside and around the park.
Safety: The park is safe, but keep an eye on personal belongings.
Photography: Permitted except where otherwise indicated inside exhibitions.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: What are the visiting hours for Retiro Park and the palace remains?
A: Retiro Park is open from 6:00 AM to midnight in spring/summer and until 10:00 PM in autumn/winter. Museum buildings typically operate from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, Tuesday to Sunday.

Q: Do I need tickets to enter Retiro Park or palace structures?
A: Park entry is free. Tickets are required for Salón de Reinos, Casón del Buen Retiro, and some exhibitions.

Q: Are guided tours available?
A: Yes, for both the park and palace buildings. Check official sources for schedules.

Q: Is the site accessible for wheelchairs and strollers?
A: Yes, main paths are paved, and accessible restrooms are available.

Q: Can I bring my dog?
A: Dogs are welcome but must be leashed except in designated areas.

Plan Your Visit and Enhance Your Experience

Make the most of your trip by downloading the Audiala app for interactive maps, personalized itineraries, and real-time updates. For the latest on guided tours and events, consult esmadrid.com and official museum websites.