BirminghamUnited Kingdom 52° N · 1° W Verified Aug 2026
A medieval market charter from 1166 still echoes through Birmingham’s Bull Ring, where St Martin’s church meets a disc-clad icon of modern retail today.
Photo: Bs0u10e0 · CC BY-SA 4.0
Fifteen thousand spun-aluminium discs give Selfridges at Birmingham's Bull Ring a silver skin, while a documented market charter, a recorded riot, and a church with medieval roots occupy the same few acres. Visit Bull Ring in Birmingham, United Kingdom, to see the city's commercial memory pressed against its loudest modern experiment: St Martin's spire, Nelson's bronze, and a retail centre that looks faintly extraterrestrial. Come for the shopping; stay for the deliciously awkward question of what a marketplace remembers.
Records show that in 1166 Henry II granted Peter FitzWilliam de Bermingham a weekly Thursday market at his manor. That charter turned a local meeting point into a commercial habit, and the Bull Ring still performs the same basic trick: bringing strangers together to exchange money, goods, news, and opinions.
What visitors see now is a layered argument rather than a preserved medieval square. Architectural histories confirm that J. A. Chatwin rebuilt most of St Martin-in-the-Bull Ring between 1873 and 1875, while the 1809 Nelson statue quietly claims to be Britain's first public monument to the admiral.
Look closely at the names underfoot. Local histories connect The Shambles and Spiceal Street with the old butcher stalls and traders in cloth, spices, and apothecary goods. The merchandise has changed; the instinct to gather here has not.
History
The Bull Ring's oldest story is not architectural. Records show a commercial ritual beginning with Peter de Bermingham's 1166 charter: a regular market in the centre of Birmingham, where trade made the town visible to the wider region. The stalls have vanished, but the function remains legible in the crowds, the shopfronts, and the steady percussion of footsteps.
Continuity here does not mean that the same building survived untouched. St Martin's was largely rebuilt, the livestock market moved to Smithfield in 1817 according to local historical accounts, and the 1964 shopping centre eventually gave way to Bullring in 2003. What endured was the public habit of using this ground for commerce, ceremony, argument, and spectacle.
The turning point
According to the UK Parliament's account, thousands gathered around Nelson's statue in July 1839 as the National Chartist Convention brought working-class demands into the open air. William Lovett and John Collins helped turn the monument's base into a reading room without walls, where political news and speeches travelled through the crowd. For Lovett and Collins, the stakes were personal: public leadership brought the real risk of arrest and the loss of their liberty.
The turning point came on 4 July, when sixty Metropolitan Police officers brought from London charged into a gathering that local authorities had declared unlawful. Accounts describe the crowd retaliating, iron churchyard railings becoming makeshift weapons, and troops restoring order near Moor Street. Ten days later, after Parliament rejected the Chartist petition, further violence sent fire and cavalry through the Bull Ring and High Street.
The episode makes the site's continuity unusually vivid. People were still gathering to exchange something in public; only the commodity had changed from meat and cloth to political possibility. A marketplace can sell goods, but it can also decide who gets heard.
Yes—especially if you like architecture, urban history, or shopping with a spectacular building attached. Future Systems’ Selfridges is wrapped in 15,000 aluminium discs, while St Martin-in-the-Bull Ring offers a hushed Gothic counterpoint just across the terraces. Look for the 1809 Nelson statue too: it predates Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square by more than 30 years.
Allow 45–60 minutes for the main architectural highlights, 2–3 hours for shopping and a meal, or 4–6 hours for the markets and Digbeth as well. A quick circuit takes in Selfridges, Laurence Broderick’s 2.2-metre bronze Bull, St Martin’s Church, and the central gallerias. The half-day version feels less like a mall visit and more like a walk through Birmingham’s trading history.
Take a train from London to Birmingham New Street, whose concourse connects directly to Grand Central and the Bullring through the indoor LinkStreet walkway. From the station, follow signs for Grand Central; Birmingham Moor Street is another nearby arrival point, directly opposite the Selfridges side. You can reach the centre without stepping outside, which is a small mercy in West Midlands rain.
Visit on a weekday morning for the calmest walkways and clearest views of the architecture, ideally in daylight when the Selfridges discs shift from silver to gunmetal. Bullring generally opens at 10:00 on weekdays, while Grand Central opens from 9:00; Saturdays are busier and Sundays have shorter hours. Winter brings festive installations, while August Bank Holiday weekend brings free outdoor performances during Birmingham Weekender.
Yes, entry to Bullring, Grand Central, St Martin’s Square, and the public concourses is free. You only pay for shopping, food, special events, or parking, with the centre’s car parks charging by duration. St Martin-in-the-Bull Ring also welcomes visitors during its published visiting hours, provided church activities are treated respectfully.
Don’t miss Selfridges’ 15,000-disc façade, the polished horns and snout of the 6.5-tonne bronze Bull, and the red-sandstone interior of St Martin-in-the-Bull Ring. Inside the church, look for medieval de Bermingham effigies and stained glass associated with Edward Burne-Jones and William Morris & Co.; outside, find Sir Richard Westmacott’s 1809 Nelson monument. Stand halfway down St Martin’s steps for the best collision of Gothic spire and cobalt-silver blob architecture.
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