Baghdad

Iraq Updated Mar 2026

The Tigris turns silver at dusk, and the smell of cardamom coffee drifts from a 1917 coffeehouse where the same family has roasted beans since the Ottomans left. In Baghdad, Iraq, Friday mornings mean Al-Mutanabbi Street becomes a river of books—boxes of 10th-century poetry sliding past PDF printouts of new dissident essays—while two kilometers away the world’s largest brick arch (third-century Ctesiphon) still stands without a single steel pin. This is a city where grilled carp is slow-cooked beside the same waterway that once carried cuneiform tablets and British armored boats, and where a single alley can contain both a Mandaean baptism site older than Christianity and a rooftop café serving single-origin brew to computer-science students.

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Baghdad, Iraq Photo: waqed walid / Pexels
Attractions
22
Audio
5 h 56 min
Trip length
3–4 days
Best season
November–March (15–23 °C)

Why Baghdad

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Baghdad doesn’t whisper its past; it layers it. Walk south from the 1227 Mustansiriya madrasa—its geometric brickwork pre-dating Oxford’s first college—and you’ll hit 1950s modernist ministries with Arabesque sunscreens, then suddenly face the 43-meter bronze swords cast from melted Iranian guns and modeled on Saddam Hussein’s own forearms. Between these markers, the real city pulses: copper-smiths re-sizing rings in Shorja’s medieval vaults, ice-cream vendors in Karrada rolling pistachio-topped kleicha at 1 a.m., and oud luthiers tapping soundboards in workshops that survived Mongols, sanctions, and drones.

What makes the capital worth the visa paperwork is the immediacy of its contrasts. You can breakfast on tashreeb—lamb broth soaked into torn flatbread with dried lime—at 6 a.m. beside a taxi rank, then by noon stand inside a golden-domed shrine where mirrors bounce candlelight into infinity and mourners beat their chests in perfect 12-beat maqam rhythms. At sunset, take a five-dinar river taxi and watch boys dive from Abbasid bridge piers while, overhead, the 205-meter Zawra TV tower—once a revolving restaurant for Ba‘athist elite—blinks its aviation lights above families grilling masguf on the bank. Baghdad rewards visitors who trade certainty for curiosity: the book-seller who insists you take a free 1960s Egyptian comic, the stranger who walks you to the qahwa where your grandfather once drank tea in 1958, the architect who can explain why the 14th-century Khan Murjan’s vaults stay cool without air-conditioning.

  • Friday Book Market on Al-Mutanabbi Street

    Every Friday morning the air fills with ink and cardamom as vendors lay out rare first editions beside photocopied poetry under the 10th-century poet’s bronze gaze. The 2007 bombing shattered the street; its resurrection is Baghdad’s quietest act of defiance.

  • Iraq Museum’s 7,000-Year Timeline

    Stand eye-to-eye with the 3,200 BCE Warka Vase—one of humanity’s first narrative reliefs—and walk straight from Sumerian lapis bulls to Islamic astrolabes in a single gallery. Most of the looted pieces have come home; the missing gaps tell their own story.

  • Masguf Carpets along Abu Nuwas Corniche

    At dusk, riverside cafés lever open split Tigris carpas, peg them beside open fires, and serve the smoky flesh with pickles and flatbread while tea glasses clink like wind-chimes. It’s Baghdad’s oldest culinary ritual—older than the city’s own walls.

  • Taq Kasra, the World’s Largest Brick Arch

    Thirty-seven metres of Sassanid brickwork still hover 35 km south of the city, framing desert sky instead of Ctesiphon’s vanished palace. Arrive at sunrise and you’ll have the echoing 6th-century vault to yourself.

Places to Visit

Not every monument, just the ones we'd walk you past ourselves.

All 103 places in Baghdad

Neighborhoods

Where to wander, by quarter — each with its own rhythm.

  • Al-Karrada

    A narrow Tigris peninsula that functions as Baghdad’s living room. By day it’s electronics bazaars and oud repair stalls; by night, restaurants spill onto sidewalks serving masguf carp and cardamom ice-cream while families promenade past Faqma’s neon queue. The side streets hide 1950s apartment blocks with curved balconies and rooftop bars where you can watch the river glint between minarets.

  • Al-Mutanabbi & Bab al-Sharji

    The city’s literary lung. Every Friday the street becomes an open-air book market—first editions of Syrian poetry beside stappled student plays—anchored by Shabandar Café, where walls of black-and-white photos remember 2007’s bombing and the defiant rebuild. Walk two blocks east and you’re in metal-worker alleys that smell of solder and cumin from breakfast tashreeb counters opening at dawn.

  • Kadhimiya

    A circular shrine city grafted onto northwest Baghdad. Two golden domes mark the tombs of the seventh and ninth Shia Imams; the courtyards glitter with mirror mosaics and pilgrims wheeling silver carts of rosewater. Outside the gates, goldsmith lanes hammer bridal sets while date-stuffed kleicha bakeries compete for the crispiest crust.

  • Al-Adhamiyah

    Across the river from Kadhimiya, this Sunni district keeps a slower clock. Narrow lanes lead to the Abu Hanifa mosque whose 1,200-year-old minaret leans like a tired teacher. Friday afternoons bring pigeon fanciers to rooftops and elderly men debating maqam rhythms over bottomless glasses of tea in century-old qahwas.

  • Mansour

    Wide, tree-lined avenues and 1970s villas built during the oil boom. Today it’s embassy-adjacent cafés roasting single-origin Yemeni beans, Lebanese bistros with alcohol licenses, and boutique bakeries where baklava is brushed with Bulgarian butter. The place to eat mezze at midnight while satellite dishes blink above gated gardens.

  • Jadriya (Al-Jadriyah)

    A university town on a river bend. Walter Gropius’s 1957 master plan created low-rise faculties around a central axis; students zip past on scooters between modernist lecture halls and lakeside rowing clubs where singles sculls slice water at dawn. Evening brings open-air shisha gardens and debate circles arguing over Iraqi rap lyrics.

  • Al-Rasheed Street

    The 1920s boulevard that once had Baghdad’s first cinema and still arches its Ottoman-era arcades over shoe-repair cubbies and printing presses. Restoration crews are slowly peeling back decades of soot to reveal Art-Deco facades; meanwhile, tea boys dart between traffic carrying brass trays of tiny glasses to taxi drivers who refuse to leave their engines.

  • Karkh & The Green Zone Perimeter

    West-bank power corridor. Beyond the blast walls you’ll find the National Museum (Warka Vase, 3,200 BCE) and the Victory Arch’s bronze swords. Cafés facing the river serve masguf to civil servants; walk ten minutes south and Haifa Street’s 1970s residential towers—once sniper alleys—now host rooftop art studios with uninterrupted views of the Tigris.

Plan your trip

Before you go

Getting There
Baghdad International Airport (BGW) fields daily Emirates, Qatar Airways, Turkish and Iraqi Airways flights. No passenger rail exists; overland arrives via Highway 1 from Jordan, Highway 5 from Kuwait, or the Kurdish north’s Erbil–Baghdad motorway.
Getting Around
No metro exists—plans remain paper since the 1980s. White-and-orange shared minibuses ply set routes for 1,000 IQD, but signage is Arabic-only. Licensed yellow taxis negotiate 5,000–15,000 IQD inside the city; hotel limos cost more but include a driver who knows checkpoints.
Climate & Best Time
Summer (Jun–Aug) peaks at 45 °C and is essentially unvisitable. Winter (Dec–Feb) hovers 4–16 °C with occasional rain. Come November–March for 15–25 °C days, clear skies, and the only bearable walking weather; dust storms can still obscure March skies.
Safety
Central Karrada, Mansour and Al-Mutanabbi Street bustle by day but rocket attacks still target the Green Zone fringe. Carry copies of your passport for checkpoints, photograph nothing military, and heed the UK FCDO’s ‘all-but-essential-travel’ tag.

A City Shaped by Empire and Revolution

From Mesopotamian village to global intellectual capital

  1. c. 305 BCE

    Seleucia Rises Across the River

    Macedonian generals build Seleucia-on-the-Tigris directly opposite today's Baghdad, creating a metropolis of 600,000. The grid-planned city becomes the region's commercial heart, its agora echoing with Greek, Persian, and Aramaic. For the next 450 years, this urban giant casts its shadow over the modest village that will become Baghdad.

  2. 762 CE

    Al-Mansur Draws the Perfect Circle

    On July 30, Caliph al-Mansur founds Madinat al-Salam, the perfectly round 'City of Peace.' 100,000 workers spend four years building 2.4 kilometers of double walls, four gates, and a central palace that gleams with gold. The 4.8 million dirham project transforms a sleepy village into the world's largest city outside China.

  3. c. 780

    Al-Khwarizmi Invents Algebra

    In the House of Wisdom, Muhammad ibn Musa al-Khwarizmi writes 'The Compendious Book on Calculation by Completion and Balancing,' giving mathematics its most powerful tool. His systematic approach to solving equations becomes the algorithm that still powers our digital age. Baghdad's scholars aren't just translating Greek texts—they're creating entirely new sciences.

  4. 786 CE

    Harun al-Rashid's Baghdad Dazzles

    When Harun al-Rashid takes the throne, Baghdad's population hits one million. The city's 600 hammams steam with rosewater, its markets overflow with Chinese silk and African ivory, and its streets glow with oil lamps—an innovation that keeps the city awake past sunset. This is the Baghdad of Arabian Nights, where the Caliph walks incognito among his subjects.

  5. c. 830

    House of Wisdom Opens Its Doors

    Caliph al-Ma'mun transforms Baghdad into the world's knowledge capital, hiring translators at gold-dinar rates to convert Greek, Persian, and Sanskrit texts. The circular library contains so many books that when the Tigris floods, workers use them as sandbags. Here, al-Kindi pioneers cryptography while astronomers calculate Earth's circumference with 99% accuracy.

  6. February 1258

    The Mongols Turn the Tigris Black

    Hulagu Khan's 150,000 Mongols breach Baghdad's walls after a 12-day siege. They massacre between 200,000 and 800,000 residents, trample the last Abbasid Caliph wrapped in a carpet, and throw so many books into the Tigris that the river runs black with ink, then red with blood. The House of Wisdom burns for seven days. Baghdad never fully recovers.

Show the full timeline (19 moments)
  1. November 1534

    Suleiman the Magnificent Enters Baghdad

    Ottoman cannons silence the last Safavid resistance, bringing Baghdad under Istanbul's rule for 280 years. Sultan Suleiman visits the tomb of Abu Hanifa, restoring Sunni sites damaged under Shia Safavid rule. The city becomes a frontier outpost, its population shrunk to 50,000, but gains Ottoman baths, coffeehouses, and a new Friday mosque.

  2. 1831

    Flood and Reform Sweep Through

    The Tigris overflows its banks, destroying half of Baghdad's mud-brick houses in the same year Ottoman reformer Ali Ridha Pasha arrives to crush the autonomous Mamluk governors. The floodwaters carry away centuries of accumulated history, while the new governor introduces the city's first printing press and newspaper, dragging Baghdad into the modern age.

  3. March 11, 1917

    British Troops March In

    General Maude's Indian Army enters Baghdad after 13,000 British soldiers died attempting the same feat two years earlier. The Ottoman governor flees by boat, leaving the city's 145,000 residents to watch khaki-clad soldiers occupy their streets. Maude's famous proclamation promises liberation, not conquest—words that will haunt both empires for a century.

  4. August 23, 1921

    Faisal Crowned in the Desert Palace

    In the Umayyad Palace overlooking the Tigris, British officials place a crown on Faisal bin Hussein's head, creating Iraq from three Ottoman provinces. The Hashemite king speaks no Arabic fluently, ruling over a city where Sunni, Shia, Kurdish, and Jewish populations eye each other warily. Baghdad becomes a capital searching for a nation.

  5. 1932

    Gertrude Bell's Museum Opens

    The woman who drew Iraq's borders with a fountain pen opens the Iraq Museum in a converted Ottoman palace. Bell personally catalogs 3,000 artifacts spanning 7,000 years, from the 5,000-year-old Standard of Ur to tablets bearing humanity's first written words. She dies four years later, buried in Baghdad's British cemetery, her museum becoming the city's cultural crown jewel.

  6. July 14, 1958

    Revolution in the Palace Courtyard

    At dawn, tanks crash through the palace gates. Soldiers drag 23-year-old King Faisal II into the courtyard and shoot him, ending 37 years of Hashemite rule. The young king's body joins his uncle's in the street, while Prime Minister Nuri al-Said is caught fleeing in a woman's dress and killed the next day. Baghdad's population, now 550,000, wakes to a republic proclaimed from radio loudspeakers.

  7. July 16, 1979

    Saddam Purges the Revolution

    In a televised Ba'ath Party meeting, Saddam Hussein reads names from a list. Each named official is led away to execution as cameras roll. Within days, 500 party members are eliminated. The 42-year-old president from Tikrit transforms Baghdad into a stage for his personality cult, building triumphal arches with crossed swords and giant portraits that watch over every street.

  8. 1983

    The Martyr's Monument Splits the Sky

    Sculptor Ismail Fatah Al-Turk completes Baghdad's most striking landmark: two turquoise half-domes rising 40 meters, symbolizing the helmets of fallen soldiers. The monument becomes required viewing for foreign dignitaries, who must lay wreaths while Saddam's security watches. During the Iran-Iraq war, it transforms from memorial to propaganda tool, its reflecting pool mirroring both grief and glory.

  9. February 13, 1991

    The Shelter That Became a Tomb

    At 4:30 AM, American bombs punch through the Amiriyah civilian shelter, killing 408 people—half of them children seeking refuge from air raids. The concrete walls, designed to withstand conventional bombs, instead amplify the heat to 900 degrees. Baghdad wakes to find the shelter's walls still warm, scorched handprints of the dead visible in the morning light.

  10. April 9, 2003

    The Dictator's Statue Falls

    In Firdos Square, an American tank loops a chain around Saddam's 12-meter bronze statue. As it topples live on global television, Iraqis dance on the twisted metal. But the real looting begins hours later—15,000 artifacts vanish from the Iraq Museum while US Marines guard the Oil Ministry. Baghdad's 5 million residents navigate between liberation and chaos.

  11. March 5, 2007

    Bombs Silence the Booksellers

    A car bomb explodes on Al-Mutanabbi Street at 11:40 AM, killing 26 people and destroying the outdoor book market that has operated every Friday since the 1930s. The blast destroys the Shabandar Café, where generations of poets argued over verse and politics. Within months, defiant booksellers reopen their stalls among the rubble, proving that Baghdad's intellectual heart still beats.

  12. July 3, 2016

    Ramadan Shopping Turns to Carnage

    A refrigerator truck packed with explosives detonates in Karrada's shopping district, killing 325 people during Ramadan festivities. The blast is so powerful it vaporizes a shopping mall, leaving only a crater that fills with water from broken mains. Baghdad experiences its deadliest single attack since 2003, the explosion's echo heard across a city already numbed by violence.

  13. October 2019

    Tahrir Square Becomes a Revolution

    Hundreds of thousands occupy Tahrir Square, transforming it into a miniature city of tents, free kitchens, and debate circles. Protesters occupy the abandoned Turkish Restaurant tower, using it as headquarters against government snipers. By November, security forces have killed 600+ demonstrators, but the occupation continues—Baghdad's youth discovering they can seize their city's future.

Who lived here

  • Poet · 915–965

    Al-Mutanabbi

    Lived and workshopped verses in Baghdad

    He boasted his poetry could make camels kneel; courtiers feared his tongue more than armies. Today bookworms haggle under his bronze gaze on the street that bears his name—he’d love the chaos, hate the barricades.

  • Abbasid Caliph · 763–809

    Harun al-Rashid

    Ruled from Baghdad’s Round City

    He sent gifts to Charlemagne while strolling palm-lined boulevards lit by oil lamps—medieval Baghdad’s first street lighting. The modern city still quotes his nights of poetry and espionage; he’d recognise the river breeze, if not the traffic.

  • Archaeologist & Diplomat · 1868–1926

    Gertrude Bell

    Mapped and photographed Baghdad 1909-1920

    She rode camels to Babylon before breakfast and drew Iraq’s first borders over tea at the British Residency. Her photographs of Taq Kasra’s arch survive; she’d marvel that the bricks still stand while her typewriter rusts in a Karrada antique shop.

  • Architect · 1950–2016

    Zaha Hadid

    Born in Baghdad; studied at Baghdad University

    The city’s jagged riverbanks taught her that space could flow. She left for London after the 1970s unrest; today students sketch her swooping roofs on the same Jadiriyah campus where she once skipped lectures to gaze at the Tigris.

Where to Eat

Where locals actually book dinner — not the tourist menus.

  • Masguf (Tigris Carp)

    Whole river carp butterflied, salted and slow-grilled upright beside reed fires; the flesh picks up smoke you can taste hours later. Eat it riverside at Abu Nuwas with pickled turnip and freshly-baked samoon bread.

  • Faqma Ice Cream, Karrada

    Since the 1970s this parlour has whipped guava, date molasses and pistachio into stretchy ice cream so dense it arrives with a knife. Expect a queue after 8 p.m.—locals treat it like evening prayer.

  • Shorja Spice Souk

    Follow your nose to pyramids of green cardamom, crimson sumac and dried lime that perfume alleyways built by Ottoman caravans. Vendors will brew you a tiny glass of cardamom tea if you bargain politely.

  • Al-Shabandar Café, Al-Mutanabbi Street

    Copper trays of bitter chai and the bubble of nargila pipes have drawn poets since 1917. Black-and-white photos of long-gone writers paper the walls, watching every new verse scribbled in nicotine-scented notebooks.

  • Qahwa-Style Coffee

    Order ‘qahwa sada’ for an unsweetened shot laced with cardamom, poured from a long-spouted dallah into thimble cups. The ritual comes with a glass of water to clear the palate and, often, a heated political debate from neighbouring tables.

  • Kubba Bamia

    Rice-crumb dumplings stuffed with spiced mince swim in a tangy okra stew brightened with tomato and dried lime. It’s comfort food for Thursday family lunches—look for it in smaller Karrada kitchens.

  • Al-Rasheed Street Breakfast

    At dawn, bakeries haul diamond-shaped samoon from wood-fired ovens; pair one with warm date syrup and clotted cream for a 2,000-dinar start strong enough to fuel a morning museum sprint.

Insider tips

Small things that change how the city treats you.

  • Skip July Heat

    Baghdad hits 45 °C in midsummer—plan riverfront dinners, not midday museum loops. November–March gives you 15–23 °C and clear skies.

  • Carry Fresh USD

    ATMs often reject foreign cards; exchange crisp $100 bills at Karrada sarrafa for the best IQD rate. Worn notes are refused.

  • Order Masguf at Dusk

    Carp is grilled to order—arrive Abu Nuwas corniche before sunset so you eat as call-to-prayer drifts over the Tigris.

  • Ask at Shrines

    Outer courtyards of Al-Kadhimiya Mosque allow photos; inner sanctuary does not—always check with the black-turbaned guard first.

  • Pre-book Airport Ride

    Official taxis quote IQD 25 000 but hotels will send a trusted driver for USD 30—worth it to glide past checkpoint queues at 2 a.m.

  • Friday Book Hush

    Al-Mutanabbi Street turns into an open-air library on Friday morning—keep voices low; poets still argue over 10th-century verse here.

Frequently asked

Is Baghdad worth visiting right now?

Yes—if you crave living history. The Iraq Museum’s 5 000-year-old Warka Vase, riverside masguf dinners and Friday book market on Al-Mutanabbi Street all operate daily. Security is vastly improved since 2017, but you must follow current embassy advice and hire a local guide.

How many days do I need in Baghdad?

Three full days cover the essentials: Day 1—National Museum, Al-Mutanabbi Street, Al-Shabandar café; Day 2—Kadhimiya & Abu Hanifa shrines, sunset boat on Tigris; Day 3—Ctesiphon arch excursion and modernist architecture tour. Add a fourth if you want Babylon as a day-trip.

Can I use credit cards in Baghdad?

Almost nowhere except the Babylon Rotana and Al-Rasheed Hotel restaurants. Bring cash—USD 100 bills in perfect condition to swap at licensed exchange shops in Karrada or Shorja market.

Is Baghdad safe for solo female travellers?

Local women move freely in Karrada and Mansour, but foreign women draw attention. Wear loose long sleeves, long skirt or trousers, and cover hair near shrines. Use a trusted driver after dark; avoid Sadr City and Green Zone perimeter.

What is the cheapest way to get from Baghdad airport to the city?

Yellow airport taxi for IQD 15 000–25 000 (US $11–19) if you haggle hard upstairs departures level. Shared minibuses exist but have no fixed stops and require Arabic—stick to the taxi for first visits.

Which day-trip from Baghdad gives the biggest wow-factor?

Ctesiphon (35 km south) at dawn—standing under the 37 m-high Taq Kasra, the world’s largest brick arch, with no other tourists. Pair it with Babylon the same afternoon.

All Places to Visit.

103 places to discover

National Museum of Iraq
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National Museum of Iraq

Al-Kadhimiya Mosque
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Al-Kadhimiya Mosque

Abu Hanifa Mosque
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Abu Hanifa Mosque

Zumurrud Khatun Mosque
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Zumurrud Khatun Mosque

Sheikh Abdul Qader Al-Jilani Mosque
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Sheikh Abdul Qader Al-Jilani Mosque

Alkhulafa Mosque
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Alkhulafa Mosque

Al-Sarai Mosque
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Al-Sarai Mosque

Mosque of Ahmadiyah
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Mosque of Ahmadiyah

Al Khalani Mosque
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Al Khalani Mosque

Al-Wazeer Mosque
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Al-Wazeer Mosque

Shabandar Mosque
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Shabandar Mosque

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Al Zawra’A Gardens

Victory Arch
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Victory Arch

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Umm Al-Qura Mosque

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Baghdadi Museum

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Taj Palace

Al-Rahman Mosque
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Al-Rahman Mosque

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Um Al-Tabboul Mosque

Mosque of 17 Ramadan
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Mosque of 17 Ramadan

Sayidat Al-Nejat Cathedral in Baghdad
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Sayidat Al-Nejat Cathedral in Baghdad

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Iraq Natural History Museum

Mosque of Sayed Sultan Ali
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Mosque of Sayed Sultan Ali

Al Haj Bonnea Mosque
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Al Haj Bonnea Mosque

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Abd Al-Karim Qasim Museum

Al-Shawy Mosque
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Al-Shawy Mosque

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Adila Khatun Mosque

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Al-Musta'Sim Billah Mosque

National Museum of Modern Art
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National Museum of Modern Art

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Meir Taweig Synagogue

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St. Gregory the Great Armenian Church

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Ahmad Ibn Hanbal Mosque

Al-Shaheed Monument
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Al-Shaheed Monument

Al Rahbi Park
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Al Rahbi Park

Firdos Square
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Firdos Square

Haydar-Khana Mosque
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Haydar-Khana Mosque

Al-Faw Palace
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Al-Faw Palace

As-Salam Palace
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As-Salam Palace

Khan Murjan
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Khan Murjan

Baghdad Tower
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Baghdad Tower

The Monument to the Unknown Soldier
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The Monument to the Unknown Soldier

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Great Celebrations Square

Republican Palace
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Republican Palace

Al-Aaimmah Bridge
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Al-Aaimmah Bridge

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Save Iraqi Culture Monument

Baghdad International Airport
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Baghdad International Airport

University of Baghdad
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University of Baghdad

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Shaduppum

Round City of Baghdad
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Round City of Baghdad

Showing 1–48 of 103 places

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