Destinations Brazil Rio De Janeiro Escadaria Selarón

Escadaria Selarón.

Rio De Janeiro Brazil 22° S · 43° W

A Chilean artist turned a worn public staircase into Rio’s loudest mosaic postcard, linking bohemian Lapa to the hillside calm of Santa Teresa today.

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Escadaria Selarón
Escadaria Selarón · Rio De Janeiro
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Introduction

AA staircase covered in more than 2,000 tiles from over 60 countries sounds like public art by committee; Escadaria Selarón in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, was the obsession of one man. You come for the riot of red, cobalt, and yellow, then stay because the place keeps slipping out of the postcard frame: part self-portrait, part neighborhood shortcut, part open-air argument about what a city should preserve. Few spots in Rio reward slow looking this well.

The steps climb Rua Manuel Carneiro from Lapa toward Santa Teresa, a steep link between nightlife below and hillside calm above. Feet hit the mosaic with a hard ceramic click, music drifts up from the bars near the Arcos da Lapa, and every few meters a new tile pulls your eye sideways to Peru, Angola, Japan, or a corner of Portugal.

Most visitors think they are looking at a 1990s attraction. Documented records and local heritage sources tell a better story: the staircase itself is older, part of an older route on the slope below the Convent of Santa Teresa, while the mosaic skin that made it famous was created between about 1990 and Jorge Selarón's death in 2013.

That difference matters. Escadaria Selarón is worth visiting because it shows Rio in layers at once: colonial hill path, neglected urban stair, personal artwork, global icon, and now a protected public site the city is still learning how to care for.

01 What to See

The Lower Steps from Rua Manuel Carneiro

The surprise is how theatrical the staircase feels from the first landing: 215 steps rising for 125 meters, a run about two and a half Olympic pools long, skinned in red, yellow, blue, and green so saturated they seem to hum in the Rio heat. Start at the bottom on Rua Manuel Carneiro near the Arcos da Lapa, where camera shutters click, samba leaks in from Lapa, and the famous centered view reveals Selarón's real trick: what looks like a postcard from below becomes a handmade obsession once you notice chipped edges, crooked grout, and tiles arriving from dozens of countries.
Busy lower section of Escadaria Selarón in Rio De Janeiro, Brazil, with visitors on the colorful staircase framed by red tiled walls.
Front-facing view of Escadaria Selarón in Rio De Janeiro, Brazil, with the tiled steps rising steeply between city buildings.

The Middle Climb and the Quiet Upper Reach

Most people stop after the photo and miss the better part. Climb higher and the staircase closes around you like an outdoor mosaic corridor, mirrors catching hard daylight in brief flashes, country tiles hiding in plain sight, and Selarón's recurring pregnant African woman appearing again and again like a private code he never fully explained. Near the upper Santa Teresa end, the noise thins, the air feels less bar-soaked, and one small 2022 detail changes the whole reading of the place: six Arabic-inscribed tiles were moved from foot level to a higher wall after requests from Rio's Muslim community, proof that this work did not freeze with its maker in 2013.

Walk It as a Threshold: Lapa to Santa Teresa

Use the steps the way the city does: as a climb from Lapa's nightlife into Santa Teresa's hilltop calm, not as a backdrop for ten minutes of posing. Go early, when the ceramic still holds the night's coolness under your shoes, pause at Casa da Escada Colorida at numbers 18 and 20, then keep going until you can look back downhill and see the staircase for what it is, less monument than living skin, always patched, always argued with, always slightly unfinished.
Close-up detail of colorful tilework on Escadaria Selarón in Rio De Janeiro, Brazil, highlighting the mosaic surfaces of the steps.
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More than a Pub Crawl: An Authentic Night Experience in Rio Viator

More than a Pub Crawl: An Authentic Night Experience in Rio

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Christ the Redeemer by Van and Selarón Steps Viator

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Selarón Steps, Lapa, Cinelândia & Historic Santa Teresa Tram Tour Viator

Selarón Steps, Lapa, Cinelândia & Historic Santa Teresa Tram Tour

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Full Day in Rio: Christ, Sugarloaf, Selarón & Barbecue Lunch Viator

Full Day in Rio: Christ, Sugarloaf, Selarón & Barbecue Lunch

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Christ the Redeemer, Selaron, Cathedral, Maracana, Sambadrome Half-Day Tour Viator

Christ the Redeemer, Selaron, Cathedral, Maracana, Sambadrome Half-Day Tour

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Christ the Redeemer, Selaron Steps and Santa Teresa Half-day Tour Viator

Christ the Redeemer, Selaron Steps and Santa Teresa Half-day Tour

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03 Visitor Logistics

Getting There

Escadaria Selarón runs between Rua Joaquim Silva in Lapa and Rua Manuel Carneiro in Santa Teresa, about a 5-minute walk from the Arcos da Lapa. From Cinelândia station on Metro Lines 1 and 2, count on 10-15 minutes on foot via Rua Evaristo da Veiga and Rua Joaquim Silva; from Glória station, about 10 minutes via Rua da Glória and Rua Teotônio Regadas. Uber and taxis can drop you near the lower steps, while driving is less graceful: street parking is thin, and nearby paid lots include Rio Antigo Park at R. Teotônio Regadas, 41 and Safety Park at R. da Lapa, 86.

Opening Hours

As of 2026, local tourism sources treat the staircase as a public artwork open 24 hours a day, including weekends and holidays. No official seasonal schedule has been posted, and I found no 2026 closure notice for the steps themselves, though city works announced in July 2025 may still affect circulation on the surrounding streets.

Time Needed

Give it 15-30 minutes if you want the classic lower-step photo and a short climb. A better visit takes 20-40 minutes, enough to walk the full 215 steps, spot the tile fragments from dozens of countries, and let the sound of Lapa fade as Santa Teresa starts to take over. Add an hour if you plan to keep going uphill for cafes, viewpoints, or the tram area.

Accessibility

The staircase itself is not wheelchair-friendly: 215 tiled steps rise in a continuous slope, more like climbing a low-rise building than crossing a street, and no elevator or step-free route runs through the artwork. Nearby access is better than the stairs suggest, since Cinelândia and Glória metro stations are accessible, and city works announced in 2025 included ramps and sidewalk upgrades around the approach streets.

Cost & Tickets

Entry is free, and as of 2026 no ticket, timed slot, or official booking system exists because this is a public staircase, not a gated attraction. Paid tours may stop here, but you are paying for the guide, not admission, and the only line that regularly forms is the one for the famous photo angle near the bottom.

05 Tips for Visitors

Go Early

Early morning changes the mood completely. The tiles catch softer light, the lower steps are easier to photograph, and you avoid the late-morning crush when people queue for the same shot like they're boarding a flight.

Phone Tight

Treat the lower Lapa side as a busy city corner, not an open-air studio. Local reporting and recent traveler accounts keep repeating the same rule: visit in daylight, keep your phone put away between shots, and use rideshare if you are arriving at dusk or later.

Shoot Higher Up

Most visitors stop at the bottom and wait for the postcard frame. Climb past that bottleneck. A few landings higher, the crowd thins, the mosaic details get stranger, and your photos stop looking like everyone else's.

Drone Reality

Drones are a bad fit here. Brazilian rules require registration for drones over 250 g, a 30-meter horizontal buffer from uninvolved people, and extra authorization for foreign drones, which makes a crowded staircase in central Rio close to impossible to film legally.

Eat Uphill

Skip the first convenience snacks if you want an actual meal and keep going toward Santa Teresa. Bar do Mineiro is the classic move for feijoada and pastel de feijoada, Café do Alto does an excellent northeastern Brazilian brunch, and Sobrenatural works if you want seafood with live-music energy; all sit in the budget-to-mid-range or mid-range bracket, with Território Aprazível reserved for a splurge.

Make It A Route

The staircase makes more sense as a hinge than as a stand-alone stop. Pair it with the Arcos da Lapa below, then continue uphill to Parque Glória Maria or the Bondinho de Santa Teresa, and you feel Rio switch tempo under your feet.

Where to Eat

local_dining

Don't Leave Without Trying

Feijoada completa Filé à Oswaldo Aranha Pastel + caldo de cana Coxinha Pão de queijo Açaí na tigela Tapioca crepes
Pitstop Selaron

Pitstop Selaron

quick bite
Brazilian bar / snacks €€ star 5.0 (21)

Order: Cod croquettes and pumpkin-and-beef croquettes are must-tries

A lively spot near Escadaria Selarón, perfect for quick bites and local drinks. The croquettes are legendary, and the vibe is unpretentious and friendly.

schedule

Opening Hours

Pitstop Selaron

Monday 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM
Tuesday 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM
Wednesday 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM
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Bar da Irene

Bar da Irene

local favorite
Brazilian bar / snacks €€ star 5.0 (18)

Order: Feijoada and pastel de feijoada for a hearty, local lunch

A beloved spot in Lapa, Bar da Irene is a go-to for authentic Carioca comfort food. The feijoada is rich and flavorful, and the pastel de feijoada is a must-try.

Bistrô Remy

Bistrô Remy

local favorite
Brazilian contemporary €€ star 5.0 (8)

Order: Filé à Oswaldo Aranha and other classic Brazilian dishes with a modern twist

Bistrô Remy offers a refined yet relaxed dining experience, blending traditional Brazilian flavors with contemporary techniques. The Filé à Oswaldo Aranha is a standout.

schedule

Opening Hours

Bistrô Remy

Monday 9:00 AM – 11:00 PM
Tuesday 9:00 AM – 11:00 PM
Wednesday 9:00 AM – 11:00 PM
mapMaps languageWeb
El Completo Maravilla

El Completo Maravilla

local favorite
Brazilian grill €€ star 5.0 (3)

Order: Steak and ribs with big rice-and-beans plates

This spot is ideal for a no-fuss, hearty meal with generous portions. The grilled meats are perfectly seasoned, and the atmosphere is casual and welcoming.

schedule

Opening Hours

El Completo Maravilla

Monday 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM
Tuesday 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM
Wednesday 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM
mapMaps languageWeb
info

Dining Tips

  • check Feijoada is best for lunch, not dinner, as it's a traditional midday meal in Rio.
Food districts: Santa Teresa for cafes and modern Brazilian cuisine Lapa for classic bars and local comfort food

Restaurant data powered by Google

04 Historical Context

A Staircase That Refused To Stay Finished

Long before the tiles, this was a working stair on the slope beneath the Convent of Santa Teresa, whose documented history reaches back to the mid-18th century and whose earlier religious presence is attributed to the early 17th. The climb linked lower Lapa to the hill above; by the late 20th century, sources describe it as worn, shabby, and easy to ignore.

Then a Chilean-born artist turned neglect into spectacle. Records show Jorge Selarón began repairing the steps around 1990, and sources point to 1994 as the moment the tile-clad mosaic phase came into focus. What looks spontaneous today was built piece by piece, with grout, salvaged ceramics, and stubbornness.

Jorge Selarón Bet His Life On These Steps

Jorge Selarón, born in 1947 in Chile, lived beside the staircase and treated it less like a commission than a private compulsion made public. Multiple contemporary reports say he financed the work by selling paintings, often while under financial strain, so the stake for him was painfully direct: money, shelter, and the legacy of the only artwork he seemed to believe mattered.

The turning point came when a few repaired steps became an ever-expanding mosaic. By the 2000s the staircase had turned into an international emblem of Rio, dense with flags, devotional fragments, and roughly 300 hand-painted tiles showing a pregnant Black woman, a figure Selarón called a personal problem from his past and never explained.

Another turning point came on 10 January 2013, when Selarón was found dead on the staircase he had spent more than two decades remaking. After that, the city had to do something he never did: define an ending. Municipal teams documented the work in 2013 so conservators could preserve a last known state, and permanent historic protection followed in August 2015.

Older Than The Mosaic

Visitors often date the whole place to 1990. That is only the beginning of Selarón's intervention. Heritage sources identify the stair as the old Escadaria do Convento de Santa Teresa, on the route below a convent founded in 1750 and occupied from 1751, on a hill whose earlier chapel is attributed to the 1620s. The staircase's fame is modern; the path under your feet is much older.

A Living Object Becomes Heritage

Preserving Escadaria Selarón poses an awkward question: how do you protect a work whose whole character came from constant change? The city first granted provisional municipal protection on 19 April 2005, published 20 April 2005, and permanent listing on 17 August 2015, published 18 August 2015. More recent interventions prove the debate is still active. In 2022, officials repositioned six tiles bearing the name Allah after objections from Rio's Muslim community, and in July 2025 City Hall announced urbanization and access works around the staircase, though completion remained unconfirmed in this research pass.

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06 Frequently Asked

Is Escadaria Selarón worth visiting? add

Yes, especially if you want a Rio sight that feels handmade rather than polished. The staircase runs 125 meters, about the length of a city block, and its 215 steps are covered in tiles, mirrors, flags, and repeated painted figures that reward slow looking. Go for the famous photo if you must, then keep climbing; the upper stretch into Santa Teresa is usually calmer and far more interesting.

How long do you need at Escadaria Selarón? add

Give it 20 to 40 minutes for a proper visit. That covers the full climb, a few pauses to scan the tile details, and time to dodge the photo queue at the bottom. If you plan to continue into Santa Teresa or stop for a drink nearby, an hour makes more sense.

How do I get to Escadaria Selarón from Rio de Janeiro city center? add

The easiest route from central Rio is metro to Cinelandia or Gloria, then a 10 to 15 minute walk. From the Arcos da Lapa, the staircase is about 5 minutes on foot, tucked between Lapa below and Santa Teresa above. Rideshares can also drop you near the foot of the steps on Rua Joaquim Silva or Rua Manuel Carneiro.

What is the best time to visit Escadaria Selarón? add

Early morning is the best time to visit Escadaria Selarón. The light is softer, the heat is lower, and the lower steps are less clogged with people waiting for the same centered photo. Weekday mornings also feel less frantic, while rainy days can make the tiles slick underfoot.

Can you visit Escadaria Selarón for free? add

Yes, Escadaria Selarón is free to visit. It is a public staircase, not a ticketed museum, and current local tourism sources treat it as generally open 24 hours a day. You pay only if you join a guided tour or stop for food, drinks, or souvenirs nearby.

What should I not miss at Escadaria Selarón? add

Do not miss the middle and upper sections of the staircase. Most people stop at the lower selfie bottleneck, but the better visit lies higher up, where you can spot donated tiles from dozens of countries, mirrored flashes in the grout, and Selarón's repeated image of a pregnant Black woman, a motif he called a personal mystery. Also keep an eye out for the Arabic-inscribed tiles that were repositioned in 2022, a small detail that says a lot about how this place is still being argued over and cared for.

Sources
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