
Saint-Martin-de-Crau Unveiled: A Playful Local’s Guide to the City’s Quirks and Charms
Date: 04/07/2025
Welcome to Saint-Martin-de-Crau: Where Stones Outnumber People and Every Breeze Tells a Tale
Imagine a sun-drenched plain where the ground crunches beneath your feet like ancient granola, the air thrums with cicadas and wild thyme, and your morning commute pauses for a slow-moving sheep stampede. Welcome to Saint-Martin-de-Crau, a unique Provençal town where sheep far outnumber people, stones outnumber sheep, and every pebble has a story—if you listen closely enough (avignon-et-provence.com).
Set aside the lavender clichés and glossy Provence postcards. The Crau plain is Europe’s only true steppe—a stony, wind-swept expanse shaped by ancient rivers and time-honored shepherding traditions. Here, you’ll swap selfie sticks for the music of sheep bells, and market mornings for the cool of mossy fountains. Saint-Martin-de-Crau is a living tapestry: Roman aqueducts, Provençal dialect, and bull fêtes that blur the line between bravery and farce all coexist in this frontier town (Shepherd for a Day).
Ready to swap the well-worn tourist path for the stony drailles (sheep trails) and immerse yourself in the land of rare birds, ancient stones, and fiercely guarded cheese recipes? This guide is your passport to the Crau’s unexpected wonders—packed with sensory adventures, local lingo, and choose-your-own-shepherd-quest itineraries. Whether you’re channeling Van Gogh at sunrise over the Étang des Aulnes, haggling for honey at the Friday market, or seeking the elusive Little Bustard, you’ll soon discover that the Crau isn’t just a place—it’s an experience (Cultural Heritage and Traditions).
Crau Life: Quests, Customs, and Quirks
The Crau Challenge: Are You Tougher Than a Sheep?
Embrace your inner shepherd and see if you can keep pace with a day in the steppe:
- Start at Dawn: Awaken to the chorus of cicadas and distant sheep bleats. Take in the aromas of sagebrush and early-morning mist at the Étang des Aulnes. Extra points if you spot the elusive “Ghost Fisher” heron.
- Market Mayhem: On Fridays, the Grande Halle explodes into a riot of colors, flavors, and bartering. Sample fougasse, listen to pétanque clatter, and taste Crau cheese—rating it from “mild whiff” to “sheep in a sauna.” Always greet the vendor with, “Vous êtes le roi du fromage!” (You’re the cheese king!)
- Find the Mossiest Fountain: Seek out the legendary Fountain Moussue, greener than any bath mat. Snap a photo—but mind the slippery moss, said to have claimed even the mayor’s dignity.
- Pastoral Power-Walk: Roam the Coussouls de Crau steppe. Listen to wind and pebbles, and watch for the rare little bustard bird, a local favorite.
- Secret Picnic: Locals love the shady poplar grove by Étang des Aulnes. Pack a picnic and search for the luck-bringing stone—tradition says to sit and bleat like a sheep for good fortune.
Crau Confidential: Local Secrets & Surprises
- Hidden Bakery: Seek out the boulangerie on Rue des Alpilles. If you find the back door, you may be offered a warm navette biscuit—just don’t mention it to the baker’s mother-in-law.
- The Church Bell Riddle: On Saint Martin’s Day, the bell rings thirteen times at midnight. Theories abound—some blame a tipsy ringer, others a mischievous sheep.
- Bull Fêtes: In spring, catch a “course camarguaise,” where bulls take center stage and young men provide plenty of comic relief.
Speak Like a Saint-Martinois: Crau Lingo
- “Bòn jorn!” – Hello, Provençal-style. Use it at the market for instant smiles.
- “Le Crau, c’est pas la Camargue!” – Locals are proud of their unique plain—don’t confuse it with the Camargue!
- “Pécaïre!” – Oh dear! Handy for cheese mishaps or runaway sheep.
Choose Your Crau Adventure
Pastoral Poet’s Morning
- Greet the sunrise at Étang des Aulnes—bring a notebook to capture the atmosphere.
- Visit the parish church and admire medieval stones.
- Enjoy coffee at a terrace café and listen to local debates (rugby vs. sheep).
Crau Connoisseur’s Afternoon
- Explore the Écomusée de la Crau for a deep dive into local history.
- Wander the steppe and look for rare orchids and sheep breeds.
- Wrap up with an apéritif at the Grande Halle—order a pastis and toast “à la Crau!”
Seasons of the Crau
- Spring: Wildflowers emerge; sheep get shorn at lively festivals.
- Summer: The heat is intense, but the market’s melons are legendary.
- Autumn: Harvest brings golden hay bales and bustling fields.
- Winter: Mists settle in, and locals gather for storytelling and strong coffee.
Crau Myths and Reality
- Myth: The Crau is just a flat, boring plain.
- Truth: It’s a biodiversity hotspot brimming with rare birds and ancient springs.
- Myth: The cheese is just for tourists.
- Truth: Locals are fiercely loyal to their Tomme de Crau—don’t underestimate their passion!
FAQ: All You’ve Ever Wondered
When is the best time to visit?
Spring for wildflowers, autumn for hay bales, Fridays for bustling markets. Brave the sheep stampede if you’re feeling adventurous.
Can I see sheep up close?
Absolutely—follow the bells or join a shepherd tour via the Écomusée.
Is the Crau plain really made of puddingstone?
Yes—a mosaic of ancient river stones, but not recommended as a snack.
How do I greet a local?
Smile, say “Bòn jorn!” and prepare for a double air kiss (left cheek first).
Is Saint-Martin-de-Crau close to Arles or the Camargue?
Just a short drive to Arles and the Camargue’s wild horses, but the Crau is a world apart.
Explore with Audiala: Your Local Guide
Ready to unlock more secrets, stories, and slang? Download the Audiala app—your audio guide to Saint-Martin-de-Crau. With tours, quests, and insider tips, you’ll experience the Crau like a true local. Audiala: Where every stone tells a story—if you listen.
Wild Provence: The Crau Gets Quirky
Saint-Martin-de-Crau isn’t the Provence of postcards. This is the land of the “coussoul”—a stony desert, ecologically unique, shaped by ancient riverbeds. Locals are deeply proud of their steppe, quick to correct anyone confusing it with the Camargue. The Crau is Europe’s last steppe, a place where history and nature collide.
Choose Your Own Crau-venture
1. The Little Bustard Quest
Head to the Coussouls de Crau Nature Reserve with binoculars and try to spot the elusive Little Bustard. The Peau de Meau reserve is your best bet—just remember your permit from the Ecomusée de la Crau.
2. Taste Crau Hay Cheese
Sample the famed Crau hay cheese with its earthy flavor at the Saturday market. Ask for “fromage au foin de Crau” for a true taste of the land.
3. Draille des Coussouls Walk
Follow ancient sheep trails across the steppe, breathing in rosemary and possibly finding a stone shepherd’s hut—legendary resting spot for a local “Napoléon.”
4. Climb the Rochers de la Pène
For sweeping views, scramble up these low white hills north of town. On clear days, you might spot flamingos winging in from the Camargue.
Five-Senses Crau Challenge
- Sight: Spot a Pin-tailed Sandgrouse.
- Sound: Hear the crickets’ dusk chorus.
- Smell: Inhale wild thyme and sun-baked earth.
- Taste: Savor a sun-warmed peach from the market.
- Touch: Feel the ancient, smooth pebbles underfoot.
Hidden Gems
- Le Jardin de Gaston: A quirky arboretum perfect for picnics under rare trees.
- Fête des Bergers: December’s shepherd festival—sheep-shearing, folk dances, and plenty of wine.
- Greenhouse Alley: Discover a maze of greenhouses growing Provençal produce.
Crau Customs & Lingo
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Greet with “Bonjour!” or “Adieu!” for Provençal flair.
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At the Foire St-Valentin, always accept honey or tapenade samples.
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Sheep crossing? Smile and wave.
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Crau: Pronounced “krow.”
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Coussoul: The stony steppe.
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Bergers: Shepherds.
Crau-Approved Day as a Shepherd
- Morning: Sunrise birdwatching at Peau de Meau.
- Midday: Picnic at Jardin de Gaston with hay cheese and local peaches.
- Afternoon: Walk the drailles and spot sheep breeds.
- Evening: Pétanque with locals—loser buys drinks.
Seasonal Highlights
- Spring: Wildflowers and sheep festivals.
- Summer: Early birdwatching, midday siestas.
- Autumn: Fresh peaches and bustling harvest.
- Winter: Woolly chaos at Fête des Bergers.
Pop Culture & Local Legends
- The spirit of “Jean de Florette” and the landscapes of Van Gogh are alive here.
- The Crau has inspired classics by Daudet and Giono.
- Rumor has it, Van Gogh’s “starry nights” drew inspiration from the endless Crau sky.
FAQ: Steppe Straight Talk
Is it easy to get around without a car?
Transport is sparse—rent a bike or car for best access.
Can I picnic on the steppe?
Yes—just use marked areas and leave no trace.
Do I need a permit for reserves?
Yes, for Peau de Meau—get it at the Ecomusée.
Are there snakes?
Yes, but they’re shy. You’re more likely to stumble over a pebble.
Saint-Martin-de-Crau: Where History, Humor, and Heritage Collide
Every day here is a multisensory adventure: the sound of sheep bells, the taste of honeyed goat cheese, and the laughter of locals ready with a story or a sly proverb.
Life as a (Wannabe) Crau Shepherd
Wake to sheep bells and golden plain sunlight, breathe wild thyme, and join the community as it celebrates its agropastoral heritage. The Crau’s Roman origins endure, from ancient aqueducts to dry-stone huts hiding in the fields. The transhumance—seasonal sheep migration—still transforms the town into a woolly parade every spring and autumn.
Architectural and Cultural Surprises
- Barbegal Roman Aqueducts: Marvels of ancient engineering just outside town.
- Eglise Saint-Martin: Understated Romanesque beauty.
- Notre-Dame de la Vie: Baroque drama in the neighboring hamlet.
Catch a guided tour during Heritage Days in September for local tales and maybe a ghost story.
Crau Phrasebook
- “Bouan jorn!” – Good morning!
- “A l’an que ven, se sian pas mai, que siguen pas mens!” – Traditional festival toast.
- “Te fagues pas la cabisso!” – Don’t worry!
Try them at the market—extra olives if you get a laugh.
Festivals & Living Traditions
Spring and autumn mean sheep parades, music, and communal feasts. The Eygalières brocante offers a monthly treasure hunt for vintage Provençal finds.
Taste the Crau
From AOP hay-infused cheeses to market olives, honey, and robust Alpilles wines, the Crau’s flavors are as rich as its history. Don’t miss the fougasse—Van Gogh’s rumored muse.
Artistic Inspiration
The landscapes have long inspired artists. Van Gogh and the annual Rencontres d’Arles photography festival both celebrate the region’s luminous beauty.
The Crau Year in Color
- Spring: Wildflowers and sheep.
- Summer: Sunflowers and siestas.
- Autumn: Golden harvest and transhumance.
- Winter: Quiet, mist, and hearty stews.
Quirky Customs & Mythbusting
- Myth: The Crau is just a rocky plain.
Fact: It’s a UNESCO-listed biodiversity hotspot. - Myth: Provençal is just fancy French.
Fact: It’s a vibrant, poetic living language.
Perfect Day Itineraries
- The Pastoral Explorer: Coffee, aqueduct hike, market picnic, sheep parade, sunset wine.
- The Secret Hunter: Antique market, chapel visits, birdwatching, Provençal banter.
Do’s and Don’ts
Do:
Greet warmly, sample cheese, join festivals, chat with shepherds.
Don’t:
Block sheep paths, mix up Provençal and French, skip the siesta.
Before You Go: Unlock Saint-Martin-de-Crau’s Hidden Wonders with Audiala
Saint-Martin-de-Crau isn’t just a place—it’s a living legend, alive with sheep parades, herby cheeses, and the laughter of locals eager to share a story. Whether you’re tracing Roman aqueducts, picnicking beneath a wish-granting oak, or caught in the Fête des Bergers, every moment is an invitation to join the Crau’s ongoing tale (Shepherd for a Day).
To unlock the Crau’s secrets, download Audiala. With expert audio guides, insider tips, and a Provençal phrasebook, Audiala turns Saint-Martin-de-Crau from a stopover into a living, breathing adventure. Because here, every stone, sheep, and smile has a story—if you have the right guide (Cultural Heritage and Traditions).
Sources
- Shepherd for a Day: Your Wild & Woolly Guide to Saint-Martin-de-Crau, Avignon et Provence
- Saint-Martin-de-Crau: France’s Last Steppe Frontier, Avignon et Provence
- Cultural Heritage and Traditions, Avignon et Provence
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