Siem Reap

Cambodia

Siem Reap

Home to Angkor Wat — the world's largest religious complex — Siem Reap rewards 3–5 days: pink sandstone temples, Khmer cuisine, $1 noodle soup at dawn.

location_on 15 attractions
calendar_month Nov–Feb (dry season)
schedule 3–5 days

Introduction

At 5:30 AM, the reflecting pools at Angkor Wat hold the temple's towers upside-down in still water while two hundred strangers stand silent on the stone banks watching the sky go orange. Siem Reap, Cambodia, grew a city around 1,000 years of Khmer civilization — and what surprises most visitors isn't the scale of Angkor, which covers some 400 square kilometers of jungle, moats, and reservoir, but how much of it you can have entirely to yourself.

The city that grew up around the temples makes its own quiet case. Pokambor Avenue runs through a French Quarter of yellow facades and wooden shutters; Wat Bo Road has an 18th-century pagoda whose interior walls show 19th-century murals mixing Hindu mythology with scenes of ordinary Cambodian life.

Cuisine Wat Damnak, a converted wooden house in Wat Bo Village, became the first Cambodian restaurant in Asia's 50 Best list in 2016, building a tasting menu from herbs grown in the chef's own garden and fish from Tonlé Sap Lake. Five kilometers from that table, Road 60 Night Market opens around 4 PM and draws Cambodian families from across the province; grilled pork with pickled vegetables costs about $1. The distance between those two dinners tells you most of what you need to know about the city.

This is also a country that lost between 25 and 33 percent of its population between 1975 and 1979. Siem Reap doesn't pretend otherwise. The Cambodia Landmine Museum, founded by a former child soldier named Aki Ra who still leads active demining operations, sits 25 kilometers north of the city center; Phare, the nightly circus school performance, trains students from difficult backgrounds and tells stories from that period using acrobatics and original music.

Places to Visit

The Most Interesting Places in Siem Reap

What Makes This City Special

A Thousand Years of Stone

Angkor Wat, built for Suryavarman II around 1150 and covering 1.6 km², is not merely the world's largest religious complex — it's a place where the 12th century still feels architecturally in charge. The temples surrounding it, from the 200 stone faces of Bayon to the strangler figs consuming Ta Prohm's galleries, add context that turns a day visit into something harder to explain.

Art That Came Back

The Khmer Rouge destroyed nearly every trained artist by 1979; what followed is the more interesting story. Artisans Angkor now employs 1,120 people reviving silversmithing, stone carving, and lacquerware, while Theam's Gallery shows lacquer paintings that place classical Khmer iconography alongside S-21 imagery — not reconciled, simply placed side by side.

Phare Circus

Phare's nightly performances combine acrobatics with storytelling drawn from Cambodia's recent history, run by graduates of a social enterprise school. It's the one evening activity in Siem Reap that doesn't feel designed to occupy tourists between temple visits — book ahead, it sells out.

Elephants Without Riders

Kulen Elephant Forest keeps 12 elephants — all retired from Angkor Wat tourist rides — across 400 hectares about an hour from the city, with no riding, no performing, and no shows. Cambodia Wildlife Sanctuary, 90 minutes north, is where Kaavan now lives: the elephant rescued from a zoo in Pakistan after a years-long international campaign involving Cher and Four Paws.

Historical Timeline

Built by Gods, Reclaimed by Jungle, Fought Over by Centuries

A thousand years of ambition carved in stone, then six decades of catastrophe

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c. 1000 BCE

Fishermen on the Great Lake

The Tonlé Sap flood pulse — the lake swelling to five times its dry-season size each monsoon — made this floodplain one of Southeast Asia's most productive fishing grounds a full millennium before the first temple stone was cut. Communities here harvested rice and freshwater fish in quantities that would eventually sustain an empire. The hydraulic genius of later Khmer kings wasn't invention; it was inheritance, refining what these unnamed farmers already understood about water and abundance.

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802

Jayavarman II Declares a God-King

On the plateau of Phnom Kulen, 30 miles north of present-day Siem Reap, a prince named Jayavarman II performed a ritual that no Khmer ruler had attempted before — declaring himself a universal monarch, a chakravartin, independent of any foreign power. The ceremony severed Cambodia's ties to the Javanese kingdom that had dominated the region for generations. Everything that would eventually stand at Angkor flows from this single act of political audacity on a mountain plateau.

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877

The First Temple Built in Stone

Indravarman I broke with brick. At Bakong, 9 miles southeast of modern Siem Reap, he raised a temple-mountain in sandstone — the first major Khmer monument built primarily in stone rather than laterite or brick. He also dug the Indratataka, a reservoir stretching nearly 4 kilometers, feeding the rice paddies that would sustain Angkor's eventual population of perhaps one million people. Water first, then temples: the Khmer hierarchy of priorities was never entirely spiritual.

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889

Angkor Is Founded

Yasovarman I planted his capital at Phnom Bakheng, a small hill overlooking what would become the world's largest pre-industrial city. He named it Yasodharapura and dug the East Baray — a reservoir 7 kilometers long and nearly 2 kilometers wide, holding enough water to irrigate the entire surrounding plain. Angkor would shift locations and expand over the centuries, but this hilltop remained its symbolic center. The tower still stands, though now crowds arrive every evening to take the same photograph of the same sunset.

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967

Banteay Srei's Impossible Detail

A minister named Yajnyavahara built Banteay Srei 38 kilometers north of Angkor's center and used pink sandstone so fine that carvers could work it almost like wood. The apsaras and devatas covering every surface have expressions — individual faces, not the generic divine attendants of a hundred other temples. The French scholar Philippe Stern, examining these carvings in the 1920s, called them the jewel of Khmer art. He was not wrong.

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1113

Suryavarman II Conceives Angkor Wat

When Suryavarman II turned his attention to a new state temple, he conceived something the world had never built: a religious complex covering 200 hectares, surrounded by a moat 190 meters wide and 5 kilometers in circumference. Construction took roughly 37 years and produced bas-relief galleries stretching 700 meters — depicting the Mahabharata, the Ramayana, and his own military campaigns in the same carved breath. He built it facing west, toward death, leading scholars to conclude it functioned simultaneously as temple and mausoleum. They haven't settled that argument yet.

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1177

Cham Warships Sack Angkor

Cham warships sailed up the Mekong in 1177, then into the Tonlé Sap, and sacked Angkor — burning, looting, killing the king, dismantling two centuries of accumulated imperial confidence in a matter of weeks. The defeat was catastrophic enough that it appears carved into the Bayon's bas-reliefs, commissioned by the king who eventually avenged it. Angkor had never been sacked before. It took years to recover anything resembling nerve.

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1181

Jayavarman VII: The Builder King

Jayavarman VII was already nearly 60 when he drove the Cham from Angkor and launched the most ambitious building program in Cambodian history. He conquered Champa itself by 1203, stretching the empire across most of mainland Southeast Asia, then turned to construction: Angkor Thom's walled city, the Bayon's 54 towers and 200-odd stone faces, Ta Prohm for his mother, Preah Khan for his father, and 102 hospitals connected by paved roads across the realm. No other Khmer king built more, fought harder, or — the Buddhist steles say — worried more about the suffering of his people. He converted the empire from Hinduism to Mahayana Buddhism along the way, which changed everything that came after.

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c. 1200

The Faces of the Bayon

The Bayon sits at the exact center of Angkor Thom's walled city, and its 54 towers — each carved with four enormous faces gazing serenely in every cardinal direction — produce an effect unlike anything else in religious architecture. Scholars remain divided on whose face it is: Jayavarman VII himself, a bodhisattva, some synthesis of the two. Walking among those towers at dawn, when mist sits low and the stone is still cold, the ambiguity feels deliberate. The faces aren't asking to be identified. They're watching you decide.

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1431

Seven Months, Then Silence

The Ayutthaya Kingdom of Siam besieged Angkor for seven months in 1431. When the walls finally fell, King Ponhea Yat gathered his court and fled south; the capital relocated first to Basan, then permanently to Chaktomuk — what is now Phnom Penh. Angkor was not fully abandoned: monks continued maintaining Angkor Wat, and some population remained. But the hydraulic infrastructure that had sustained a million people slowly silted, cracked, and surrendered to forest. The jungle did the rest over the next four centuries.

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c. 1549

A Name Born from Defiance

Local tradition credits King Ang Chan's forces with repulsing a Siamese invasion around 1549, and holds that the town was named Siem Reap — "Defeat of Siam" — to mark the moment. The scholar Michael Vickery contested the etymology, but the name stuck regardless, embedding a geopolitical grudge into every map and road sign in the country for the next five centuries. Cambodia and Siam fought repeatedly across this era; by 1795, the entire province was under Bangkok's administration. The name endured as reminder more than boast.

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1860

Henri Mouhot and the 'Lost' Temples

French explorer Henri Mouhot arrived at Angkor in 1860 and published accounts in 1863 that electrified European audiences — though the temples had never been lost. Monks had worshipped continuously at Angkor Wat for four centuries, and Chinese and Cambodian merchants had documented the ruins in writing generations before Mouhot was born. What he actually discovered was the Western appetite for a narrative about lost civilizations, which served France's colonial ambitions in the region rather conveniently. His death from fever in Laos the following year only made the story more useful.

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1907

Return from Siam, Conservation Begins

The Franco-Siamese Treaty of 1907 returned Siem Reap, Battambang, and Sisophon provinces to French Indochina after 112 years under Bangkok's administration. The École française d'Extrême-Orient immediately took charge of Angkor and established a permanent conservation office the following year, beginning systematic clearance, documentation, and anastylosis restoration — decades of painstaking work reassembling fallen towers, stone by carved stone. The Grand Hotel d'Angkor opened in 1932, catering to wealthy Europeans arriving by boat and ox-cart. International tourism to Angkor was invented here, with all the complications that would eventually entail.

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November 9, 1953

Independence Day

On November 9, 1953, Cambodia achieved independence from France under King Norodom Sihanouk, ending 90 years of protectorate rule. Angkor immediately became the symbol of national identity — the temple's silhouette printed on the new flag, stamped on the currency, painted on walls across the country. Sihanouk pursued strict neutrality through the 1950s and 1960s, balancing China, North Vietnam, and the West with remarkable agility. In Siem Reap, conservator Bernard Philippe Groslier led the most ambitious restoration program the temples had ever seen, racing to complete work before a war he could see coming.

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1970

Coup, Bombing, and the Long Collapse

General Lon Nol seized power on March 18, 1970, while Sihanouk was abroad; the American bombing campaigns already covertly underway since 1969 expanded dramatically. More than 2.7 million tons of bombs fell on Cambodian soil between 1969 and 1973, displacing two million people and driving rural survivors toward whichever armed group promised to stop it. The Khmer Rouge, a fringe movement when the decade began, recruited from that fury. Groslier was expelled from Angkor in 1972, the conservation offices shuttered. By 1975, everything had changed.

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April 17, 1975

Year Zero Arrives at Angkor

Khmer Rouge forces entered Siem Reap on April 17, 1975, and held a victory celebration inside Angkor Wat's first enclosure — as if claiming the empire's symbolic weight for themselves. Cities were evacuated within days. Approximately two million people died over the next four years from execution, forced labor, starvation, and disease — roughly one in four Cambodians. The temples that had survived seven centuries of war and monsoon survived this too. The people had less luck.

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January 7, 1979

Vietnamese Forces End the Khmer Rouge

Vietnamese forces captured Phnom Penh on January 7, 1979, ending the Khmer Rouge regime after three years, eight months, and twenty days. In Siem Reap, as across Cambodia, the immediate task was counting the dead and finding enough rice for whoever remained. Some 180,000 Vietnamese troops occupied the country for the next decade under the People's Republic of Kampuchea, while the international community — still recognizing the Khmer Rouge as Cambodia's legitimate government — imposed sanctions that made reconstruction nearly impossible. The temples sat unrestored, mined, and quietly looted.

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December 14, 1992

UNESCO Inscribes Angkor — and Warns of Danger

On December 14, 1992, Angkor was placed on UNESCO's World Heritage List and simultaneously on the List of World Heritage in Danger. Both designations were accurate: the complex had been systematically pillaged for years, landmines were buried among Ta Prohm's roots, and looted statues were appearing in auction houses in New York and London. The dual inscription triggered international funding and the International Coordinating Committee, eventually bringing 28 countries into the most expensive ongoing archaeological preservation effort in Southeast Asia.

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May 1993

90 Percent Vote Under the UN's Watch

Between May 23 and 28, 1993, more than 90 percent of registered Cambodians voted in elections administered by UNTAC — the UN Transitional Authority that had deployed 22,000 personnel from 46 countries, the first time the United Nations had directly administered an independent state. FUNCINPEC won, but Hun Sen's CPP refused to accept the result; the compromise produced two prime ministers governing simultaneously. Sihanouk returned as king. The Khmer Rouge boycotted everything and continued fighting from the northwest, and peace was real but incomplete — which turned out to be Cambodia's default condition for another decade.

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2019

2.2 Million Strangers at the Moat

By 2019, Angkor Wat alone was receiving 2.2 million international visitors per year; Cambodia as a whole saw 6.61 million international arrivals. The management problems were visible everywhere: dawn crowds at the reflecting pools numbered in the thousands, Ta Prohm's famous tree roots were fenced and roped and photographed until the bark wore smooth, and Phnom Bakheng's hilltop sunset slot required advance timed entry. Mass tourism had transformed Siem Reap from a provincial town into a city of hostels, cocktail bars, and night markets almost overnight. Whether that transformation was good for Siem Reap depended entirely on who you asked.

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2020

The Pandemic Empties the Moat

Cambodia closed its borders to international tourists in April 2020; annual arrivals collapsed from 6.61 million to 1.31 million for the year, with most of those arriving before the shutters came down. In Siem Reap, 62 percent of tourism businesses closed or suspended operations. Angkor Wat stood quiet — no tour groups at dawn, no lines at Ta Prohm — for the first time in living memory. Photographs of the deserted temples circulated globally and people called them beautiful. The people who had depended on those crowds found them devastating.

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2024

A New Airport, Far from the Stones

The Siem Reap–Angkor International Airport opened commercially in 2024, with 17 airlines transferring operations from the old city-center terminal. The new airport sits 40 kilometers from the temples — the old runway's vibrations had been quietly threatening Angkor Wat's foundations for years, which was reason enough to move. Built under an $880 million, 55-year concession to a Chinese developer, it is designed to eventually handle 20 million passengers annually. Arriving passengers now drive past miles of rice paddies before they see anything at all — a different kind of arrival for a place that once announced itself with stone towers visible from the runway.

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Present Day

Notable Figures

Suryavarman II

r. 1113–c. 1150 · Khmer King
Commissioned Angkor Wat (begun 1113)

He ordered the construction of the world's largest religious monument over roughly 37 years — a temple aligned with the spring equinox, wrapped in bas-reliefs depicting the Mahabharata, the Ramayana, and his own military campaigns across nearly a kilometer of carved stone. What makes the story strange is that we have no record of his death; he simply vanishes from inscriptions around 1150, before his temple was finished. The stone he set in motion outlasted his name.

Jayavarman VII

c. 1122–c. 1220 · Khmer King
Built Bayon, Ta Prohm, Preah Khan and Angkor Thom (reigned 1181–1219)

He reconquered Angkor after the Cham sacked it in 1177, then built more than any king before or after — Bayon's 216 carved faces, Ta Prohm for his mother, Preah Khan for his father, and 102 hospitals across the empire. The Bayon faces are believed to be portraits of Jayavarman himself, which means every photograph taken at the temple is, in some sense, a portrait. He converted the empire to Buddhism, and the temples he left behind feel different from Angkor Wat's Hindu geometry — quieter, somehow more human.

Jayavarman II

r. 802–835 · Founder of the Khmer Empire
Declared the Khmer Empire on Phnom Kulen, 50 km north of Siem Reap (802 AD)

In 802 AD, he climbed Phnom Kulen — a sandstone plateau 50 km north of modern Siem Reap — and declared himself chakravartin, universal ruler, founding the Khmer Empire on the spot. The mountain is now a national park where Cambodians make weekend pilgrimages to a giant reclining Buddha and a riverbed carved with hundreds of lingam reliefs. Without that declaration on a hilltop outside this small city, Angkor Wat would not exist.

Sopheap Pich

born 1971 · Sculptor
Exhibited in Siem Reap, 2004–2005

Born in Battambang, he survived the Khmer Rouge years as a child before studying in the United States and returning to Cambodia to build large-scale sculptures from bamboo, rattan, and beeswax — materials that echo traditional Khmer craftsmanship while making something entirely contemporary. His Siem Reap exhibitions at Hotel de la Paix and Amansara in 2004–2005 made a quiet argument: that Khmer artistic identity didn't fossilize at Angkor. He has since shown internationally, but the work still reads as unmistakably from here.

Plan your visit

Practical guides for Siem Reap — pick the format that matches your trip.

Practical Information

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Getting There

Siem Reap International Airport (SAI) sits 45 km from the city center — allow 60 minutes in traffic. Direct connections run to Bangkok (BKK), Ho Chi Minh City (SGN), Singapore, Dubai, and several Chinese hubs; Bangkok and HCMC together account for nearly 200 monthly flights. A taxi costs $35 for 1–3 passengers (6:30 AM–11 PM only); tuk-tuks run $20–25; airport shuttles depart from 9:30 AM for $8.

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Getting Around

No metro, tram, or public bus network exists in Siem Reap. PassApp and Grab both operate tuk-tuks: short city trips cost $1–6, a full-day hire runs $15–20 — the apps eliminate fare negotiations entirely. A 23 km dedicated cycling track runs through Angkor Park; bike rental costs $2–8/day, e-bikes around $35/day, with hotel delivery available from most rental companies.

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Climate & Best Time

November through February is the clear window: dry, 22–31°C, and manageable before the year turns punishing. March and April push to 35–39°C; September delivers 254 mm of rain — the wettest month — with flooded roads and closed forest trails. The wet season (May–October) has one argument: temples turn green, crowds thin, and accommodation prices drop.

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Language & Currency

USD functions as the everyday currency for hotels, tours, tuk-tuks, and Angkor tickets; Riel (KHR) handles change under $1 at roughly 4,000 KHR to the dollar. Bring clean, post-2006 US bills — businesses routinely refuse torn, marked, or pre-2006 notes, and ATM fees run $4–6 per withdrawal. English works well in tourist areas; outside them, Khmer only.

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Safety

Siem Reap is safe by Southeast Asian standards, but three patterns repeat consistently: tuk-tuk drivers quoting low fares then demanding more mid-ride (use PassApp or Grab instead), fake monks at temple entrances soliciting donations, and short-changed exchanges near Old Market. Buy Angkor passes only at the official booths — the ticket photo is tied to your face.

Tips for Visitors

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Buy the 3-Day Pass

Three separate day tickets cost $111; the 3-day Angkor pass is $62 and valid on any 3 of 10 days. Use the off-days for Tonlé Sap or the city — your pass waits.

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Bring New USD Bills

Cambodian businesses routinely reject pre-2006, creased, or marked US dollar bills without explanation. Get crisp notes from your home bank — ATMs here dispense $100s that are hard to break.

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Use Grab or PassApp

Both apps show a fixed fare before you confirm — city trips run $1–6, full-day tuk-tuk hire around $15. Street negotiations near Angkor's entrance gate regularly end higher than quoted.

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Time Your Temples

Angkor Wat faces west, so sunrise light falls behind you — but the pink-sky reflection in the moat at 5:30 AM is worth the early alarm. Ta Prohm is best before 7 AM, before tour groups arrive.

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Eat Before 8 AM Elsewhere

Phsar Leu market (2.6 km from Pub Street) and the Road 60 Night Market serve nom banh chok for $1–2 — double the quality at a third of the tourist-strip price, surrounded by locals.

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Ignore the Monks

Men in saffron robes soliciting cash near temple gates are not monks — real Buddhist monks in Cambodia don't ask foreign visitors for donations. The Cambodia Landmine Museum is a legitimate place to give if you want your money to reach someone real.

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Under-12s Enter Free

Children under 12 enter Angkor Archaeological Park at no charge — bring a passport as proof of age. Buy adult tickets at the official Angkor Enterprise booth on Charles de Gaulle Road, not through hotels.

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Avoid April

April temperatures reach 35–39°C with building humidity before the rains break. November through February is the dry window: 22–31°C, full moats from the previous wet season, and no need to plan around afternoon storms.

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Frequently Asked

Is Siem Reap worth visiting? add

Yes — and the case is stronger than temples alone. Angkor's 400 km² archaeological park spans 600 years of Khmer civilization across hundreds of structures, from Angkor Wat's precise Hindu geometry to Bayon's 200+ carved stone faces to Ta Prohm's strangler figs swallowing gallery walls. Beyond the park, Siem Reap has a genuinely interesting food scene, a nightly circus that doubles as a social enterprise, and floating villages on Tonlé Sap that few visitors bother to reach.

How many days should I spend in Siem Reap? add

Three days covers the essential circuit without fatigue. Day one: Angkor Wat at sunrise, Bayon, Ta Prohm. Day two: the outer temples, especially Banteay Srei — 38 km north, small, and carved in pink sandstone with a precision that the larger complexes can't match. Day three: Tonlé Sap lake, a city market, and Phare Circus in the evening. A fourth day earns you Beng Mealea — a jungle-buried temple 40 km east that feels genuinely unvisited.

How do I get from Siem Reap airport to the city center? add

Siem Reap–Angkor International Airport (SAI) opened in 2024 and sits 45 km from the city — roughly 60 minutes. A tuk-tuk costs $20–25, a taxi $35 for up to three passengers, and a shuttle bus $8 (departures from 9:30 AM to 10 PM). Agree the fare before you get in anything; Grab and PassApp work from the airport too and show fixed prices.

Is Siem Reap safe for tourists? add

Safer than Phnom Penh by most measures — violent crime targeting tourists is rare. The real risks are low-level scams: tuk-tuk drivers demanding more mid-ride, men posing as monks near temple gates, and businesses rejecting your dollar bills because they're creased or pre-2006. Use ride apps for fixed fares, buy Angkor tickets only at the official booth, and carry clean, new banknotes.

What is the best time of year to visit Siem Reap? add

November through February: dry, 22–31°C, and the moats hold the previous rainy season's water. March is warm but manageable; April climbs to 39°C with oppressive humidity. The wet season (May–October) cuts crowds and accommodation costs — September brings 254 mm of rain, but most mornings are clear enough for temples before noon, and the jungle around Ta Prohm turns genuinely lush.

How much does Angkor Wat cost to enter? add

A 1-day pass is $37; a 3-day pass is $62 (any 3 of 10 days); a 7-day pass is $72 (any 7 of 30 days). Children under 12 enter free with a passport. Buy at the official Angkor Enterprise booth on Charles de Gaulle Road or online to skip the queue — hotel concierges sell them at a small markup.

What currency do I need in Siem Reap? add

US dollars work for everything tourist-facing — hotels, restaurants, tuk-tuks, Angkor tickets. Change under $1 comes back in Cambodian Riel at roughly 4,000 KHR per dollar. The catch: businesses reject pre-2006, creased, torn, or marked bills without warning. Bring new, clean notes from home; $20s and $50s are easier to break than the $100s that ATMs here dispense.

What food should I try in Siem Reap? add

Start with fish amok — fish steamed in a banana leaf with coconut milk and spiced kroeung paste, somewhere between a curry and a custard. Nom banh chok (rice noodles with fish curry sauce) is the local breakfast before 8 AM at Old Market stalls for $1–2. For one serious dinner, Cuisine Wat Damnak runs a weekly tasting menu built around whatever's in the chef's garden — it was the first Cambodian restaurant to make Asia's 50 Best.

Sources

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